Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Position for Sub?

Gester

By Gester,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest wontok

Guest wontok

Posted
Posted

I've almost finished my install of two 10", one facing up and back into each corner. I extended the enclosure to take up the whole of the boot floor, including the spare tyre well, which meant I only had to raise the floor by about 3". Still plenty of boot space, and awesome sound.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

i think i'm gonna do the floor trick when my 12" comes.. and possibly mount the amp in the floor as well.

There is a fair bit of room once the spare is removed.. i'll rig up a custom floor and it should work pretty well i think. Maybe build fibreglass enclosure for the wheel well like i saw on here i think somewhere?

I like the appeal of still having some space in there. If i don't like the results I can always mount it a box later on.

Grey skys Enthusiast

Grey skys

Posted
Posted

hopefully in the next 2 weeks i am going to mount my 12inch sub in the tyre well and the amp behind the false wall and custom fabricate all the panels in the boot to hide everything. Should look mad. I was also thinking of cutting the skyline symbel in the floor and have a contrasting perpex underneath. What do you guys think. Would you get the best results face up or face down?

  • 4 weeks later...
geordie Proficient

geordie

Posted
Posted

Glassn the tyre well is good cause you can use this room to build up the litres required to make the optimal cabinet for your sub(usually specified in your sub owners manual)This method was covered in a hot 4's magazine and the end result was quite impresive, unshure of what issue i may look for you, prob is my hot 4's are all buried by hpi (i stopped buying them and started to read a real mag) cheers - Geordie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Grind them off, drill them out. Repair any rust on the other side. Start again from scratch.
    • Iron Mike
      R34 GTR parts garage clean out

      By Iron Mike · Posted

      Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • waxracing
      Power steering pump r32

      By waxracing · Posted

      Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • TurboTapin
      Power steering pump r32

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana · Posted

      Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
×
×
  • Create New...