Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Price Drop: $12400Neg

Bargin!!!

:whoops: R32 gtst type m <76000kms on clock Sept 06 rego :O

5spd

Never Been Boosted

black (Need Respray)

Sunroof Tilt And Open

type m side skirts and rear pods

bigger brakes

3.5' cat back exhaust 5' tip (EPA Proof) Went Through twice & Passed with no mods to current system

apexi pod (Stock Air Box available)

HKS Turbo Timer Mounted Under Dash Above Clutch

RAZO Racing Pedals

R33 Gear Knob

fusion FCD-240 head unit

pioneer 4x6 door speakers

pioneer 6.5' 4ways 280w speakers current model

Genuine Nissan

-R32 GTR front bar w/lower lip (genuine not cheap fiberglass)

-R32 GTR reinforcement bar (fit fmic strait on and not hack away at it)

-R32 GTR bonnet (lightweight not a cut gtst bonnet)

-R32 GTR boot lid

-R32 GTR spoiler (genuine not cheap fiberglass)

-R32 GTR Genuine N1 Bootlid Lip

2month old battery

35% Door Tints & 20% Rear Quarter & Rear Windscreen Tints

Condition: goes very well, idles well, very good daily driver, smooth ride currently on stock suspension

Since august 05 when I bought car have changed oil filter, changed oils to motul turbo light 8100 3times already also done gearbox and diff oils 3times with motul gear 300 NGK iridium platinum sparks only 2000kms old

a little rust on the top of rear windscreen and both rear quarter panels have little dings one from my sisters friend running into my car and smacking her head against it whilst chasing cat and the other from car park incident whilst I was shopping, bloody perpetrator was too gutless to leave details.

also there is a very little rear main seal leak it has been confirmed but mechanic say it is not substantial enough to take apart for as clutch has plenty of bite left.

Things that will be fixed before sale are:

Front windscreen (hairline heat crack goes halfway up passenger side blue slip passable)

Suspension Drivers side front ball joint

Reason for selling: Want GTR

Price: $14500neg with RWC, full service, and fixing of above stated with out respray

Price Is Very Negotiable but im also not desperate to sell so ill be patient and wait for the right buyer

Every Serious offer will be considered

Contact: PM or [email protected]

Phone: 0410350267

Let the Pics do the talking

*Please Note:

Rear Wheels on car in pics are no longer available rather it is fitted with r32gtst stock alloys all round or extra $800 Gets you 20" - Zenetti Kaotics.

post-23570-1141130356.jpg

post-23570-1141130383.jpg

post-23570-1141130413.jpg

post-23570-1141130446.jpg

post-23570-1141130524.jpg

post-23570-1141130566.jpg

post-23570-1141130590.jpg

post-23570-1141130627.jpg

post-23570-1141130650.jpg

post-23570-1141130687.jpg

post-23570-1141172597.jpg

post-23570-1141172617.jpg

post-23570-1141172658.jpg

post-23570-1141172677.jpg

post-23570-1141172700.jpg

post-23570-1141172718.jpg

post-23570-1141172743.jpg

post-23570-1141172786.jpg

post-23570-1141172812.jpg

post-23570-1141172826.jpg

post-23570-1141172846.jpg

Edited by krayzie32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107695-89-hcr32-4-sale-sydney/
Share on other sites

I See there is no interest in this lately can someone please suggest a reasonable price to sell this as i need it gone also i will not go any lower than $11000Firm. Currently Registered til September. Located in Liverpool, NSW

Edited by krayzie32
I See there is no interest in this lately can someone please suggest a reasonable price to sell this as i need it gone also i will not go any lower than $11000Firm. Currently Registered til September. Located in Liverpool, NSW

willing to sell body parts

i would be interested in bonnet, front bar and reo. and have black, GTST type M gear to trade you with so you are not stuck with a bonnetless, bumper less car.

did you get the pm & pics that you asked me for? i sent it the other day

Yea got them dude.

wanna meet up and have a look at each others cars

im in the liverpool area

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...