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Running My Engine In

SECURITY

By SECURITY,
in New South Wales

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SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

as some of you guys know im almost finished with my rebuild and now i need some advice on running my motor in.

so far ive got the right oil (and know to change it after 500lk's and again at 1000), i know not to pass the 3000rpm mark for 1000k's and thats pretty much it.

does anyone have any other tips for me as ive done all the work myself and dont have any kind of warranty on the rebuild... i really dont want to f**k anything up.

here are some pics ive taken:

the aftermath of a night at the drags and a dodgy bleed valve...

PIC01406.jpg

PIC01408.jpg

the bores before the honing...

PIC01415.jpg

PIC01416.jpg

after...

PIC01582.jpg

specialist tools needed.... (notice i held the corona IN FRONT of the honer)

PIC01586.jpg

pistons all in... (the red shit is assembly grease for all who are wondering)

PIC01634.jpg

this is where im at now... should be all done before this weekend...

PIC01635.jpg

i took the chance to clean my turbo up and fit a split dump...

PIC01423.jpg

and fix that friggen clicking noise in my aircon when i start the car up...

PIC01593.jpg

all up it was a good experience. if you want to learn a shit load about your motor then i strongly suggest you fry a piston ASAP..... not really, but it is a really good way to learn

i couldnt have done it without my brother in laws help who is a licensed mechanic and will be more than happy to help anyone with a problem theyve got (PM me if anyone would like to contact him) he is a really honest guy and wouldnt let me cut any corners and also tried to teach me what every part did as we were taking it apart and putting it back together.

also Craved (chris) for putting up with a shitload of my questions, BU5TER (brett) for putting up with more of my questions, Slide (aaron) again with the questions, and Moanie (mona) for trying to find me a clamp that night it all turned to shit :rolleyes: )

i made up a word file with most of the torque settings needed to work on an rb25det from start to finish so PM me and ill send away as i wouldnt have a clue on how to link it.

after its all run in who is up for a cruise through the nasho or something? ive never been and ive missed out on alot of cruises because of my freakin motor.

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Slide Grand Master

Slide

Posted
Posted
always there to help, even late into the night when your car is shitting itself on a dark road, no reception and no one around you.........

Glad to see that yellow thing moving again :rolleyes:

haha yeah mate always here to help :happy:

Mik Experienced

Mik

Posted
Posted
as some of you guys know im almost finished with my rebuild and now i need some advice on running my motor in.

so far ive got the right oil (and know to change it after 500lk's and again at 1000), i know not to pass the 3000rpm mark for 1000k's and thats pretty much it.

does anyone have any other tips for me as ive done all the work myself and dont have any kind of warranty on the rebuild... i really dont want to f**k anything up.

here are some pics ive taken:

the aftermath of a night at the drags and a dodgy bleed valve...

PIC01406.jpg

PIC01408.jpg

the bores before the honing...

PIC01415.jpg

PIC01416.jpg

after...

PIC01582.jpg

specialist tools needed.... (notice i held the corona IN FRONT of the honer)

PIC01586.jpg

pistons all in... (the red shit is assembly grease for all who are wondering)

PIC01634.jpg

this is where im at now... should be all done before this weekend...

PIC01635.jpg

i took the chance to clean my turbo up and fit a split dump...

PIC01423.jpg

and fix that friggen clicking noise in my aircon when i start the car up...

PIC01593.jpg

all up it was a good experience. if you want to learn a shit load about your motor then i strongly suggest you fry a piston ASAP..... not really, but it is a really good way to learn

i couldnt have done it without my brother in laws help who is a licensed mechanic and will be more than happy to help anyone with a problem theyve got (PM me if anyone would like to contact him) he is a really honest guy and wouldnt let me cut any corners and also tried to teach me what every part did as we were taking it apart and putting it back together.

also Craved (chris) for putting up with a shitload of my questions, BU5TER (brett) for putting up with more of my questions, Slide (aaron) again with the questions, and Moanie (mona) for trying to find me a clamp that night it all turned to shit :laugh: )

i made up a word file with most of the torque settings needed to work on an rb25det from start to finish so PM me and ill send away as i wouldnt have a clue on how to link it.

after its all run in who is up for a cruise through the nasho or something? ive never been and ive missed out on alot of cruises because of my freakin motor.

You are game using assebly lube on the rings/bores. You better be planning on giving it a hard time during run in, or else I have a feeling you will be pulling it down again to deglaze the bores...

Miller the hoon Rising Star

Miller the hoon

Posted
Posted (edited)

Good luke running it in champ

i just got my tx3 rebuilt and i was told to rev it and not put load on the engine and keep it between 2500 and 4000 revs

i had not run an engine in before but it is fine and goes faster as the engine looses up

wat did it cost and r u still running the auto (sorry i saw it in the pitcher after the post) shift kit yet?

james

Edited by Miller the hoon
SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You are game using assebly lube on the rings/bores. You better be planning on giving it a hard time during run in, or else I have a feeling you will be pulling it down again to deglaze the bores...

it says on the engine manual and on the instruction thingo for the rings to lube the pistons up on installation. reason being that it isnt lubed from the get go, so assembly grease is needed. shouldnt do much harm, most of it should be passed through the exhaust during combustion anyway.

Nice you fixed the clicking noise..

Can I ask how you did it.. I know taking out the whole dash is annoying

ripping the dash out wasnt as bad, i had it all done in 2.5hrs, in and out. i just disconnected the little motor that opens and closes the passage to the passenger, and left it open. this is what the little box looks like, i took it apart and found the teeth on the gears are all shorn off:

PIC01591.jpg

Good luke running it in champ

i just got my tx3 rebuilt and i was told to rev it and not put load on the engine and keep it between 2500 and 4000 revs

i had not run an engine in before but it is fine and goes faster as the engine looses up

wat did it cost and r u still running the auto (sorry i saw it in the pitcher after the post) shift kit yet?

james

nah im waiting to get onto a track to find out if i want to go for a manual conversion or not. the auto is doing me really well atm anyway.

these were the costs:

my mate works for a parts place so i got most of the parts for cost price.

rings from nissan - $240

big end bearings - $62.50

main bearings - $60.01

timing belt tensioner - $94.00

" " idler - $94.00

water pump - $40

thermostat - $31

honer - $85

oil (fuchs semi sinthetic) - $20

nulon coolant - $30

4 pistons - $100

head gasket (spare off a vrs kit off a member) - $50

total $906.51

i threw in gtr rods too, i had them laying around.

and mona, you'll be the first person to know!

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

If the red stuff in the bore is assebly lube the rings are never going to bed in unless you jump in to her from the start and use a very thin oil . I hope you used that stuff in the bearings thats what it is for and just engine oil on the bore and rings .

Mik Experienced

Mik

Posted
Posted
it says on the engine manual and on the instruction thingo for the rings to lube the pistons up on installation. reason being that it isnt lubed from the get go, so assembly grease is needed. shouldnt do much harm, most of it should be passed through the exhaust during combustion anyway.

With oil...not with that!

I wouldn't be running it in on synthestic oil personally either.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

Expensive rings , tensioner and idler but very cheap pistons @$25 each or were they used, what about the other 2? I assume its still a six cil . What about a gasket set ? Did you use the old gaskets ? At least i hope you used a new h/gasket or you will be pulling the cil head off very soon .

"it says on the engine manual and on the instruction thingo for the rings to lube the pistons up on installation"

Are you sure it says to use assembly lube ? If it does i would go and get another book . You should lube them but with engine oil not assembly lube thats for bearings so when you first start the engine they dont run dry ( until oil pressure builts up ) .

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

i am no engine building genius but i can confirm the builds i've been invloved in we used oil to lube the pistons and bores, not assembly grease. you dont want to use that as it creates a much stronger barrier than regular oil. that is why is good for the bearings, but not on the bore and rings.

i dont know how much of a problem it will cause with bedding in the rings, because i dont know anyone that's done it. iy may be fine, or as wrxhoon suggests, it may not be :P

either way, good luck. at least you are having a crack.

i am no engine building genius but i can confirm the builds i've been invloved in we used oil to lube the pistons and bores, not assembly grease. you dont want to use that as it creates a much stronger barrier than regular oil. that is why is good for the bearings, but not on the bore and rings.

i dont know how much of a problem it will cause with bedding in the rings, because i dont know anyone that's done it. iy may be fine, or as wrxhoon suggests, it may not be :(

either way, good luck. at least you are having a crack.

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