Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I got some mod done to my R33, Gtst

-batml split dump

-r34 intercooler

-35 bucks boost controller,

-K&n air POD

-3.5" cat back

i boost it to 10psi, but somtime spike to 11 or 12,

I am not sure if it will hurt the engine,

i wan to check if any detonation occurs

how to tell if my engine is knocking or not? i did ecu diagnose, i got code 55, which means all good?

cheers,

darrien

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108617-how-to-check-for-knocking/
Share on other sites

knock sensors work in real time, ie while you are driving they will be reading "knocking" and sending that signal to the stock ecu. the stock ecu will deal with it accordingly. theres nothing you can do about it. the stock ecu will retard some timing when it picks up knocking.

to view the current knocking you either need an aftermarket ecu that supports it, a knock sensor reader kit, or apexi safc

is there any syphtoms or signs to tell when knocking become dangerous? without geting either a PFC, knock sensor kit, or Apexi Safc?

will get pfc but in distant future, funds not allowed. :)

hope i wont kill my engine by then. :)

if you can hear detonation or pinging then its bad, it sounds like shaking an empty can of spraypaint, but more of a tingy metallic sound. if you can hear it obviously back off, the cause of pinging/detonation is generally too much timing (or heat). if its repeatedly occuring try turning the boost down if its the stock ecu.

it does have the capacity to kill your engine or cause problems if left alone, however the stock ecu has "corrections" around the factory knock sensors (assuming they are working ok) which tell it to back off some timing (i presume) when it picks up certain levels

if you can hear detonation or pinging then its bad, it sounds like shaking an empty can of spraypaint, but more of a tingy metallic sound. if you can hear it obviously back off, the cause of pinging/detonation is generally too much timing (or heat). if its repeatedly occuring try turning the boost down if its the stock ecu.

it does have the capacity to kill your engine or cause problems if left alone, however the stock ecu has "corrections" around the factory knock sensors (assuming they are working ok) which tell it to back off some timing (i presume) when it picks up certain levels

There are usually 2 ignition and 2 fuel maps for hi and low octane fuel for most Japanese Cars (Nissan, subaru, mistubishi and toyota). Knock sensors in early nissans are only active up to 4000 RPM under medium to high load(not sure on r34 and above). That means that if it senses too much engine noise in this map area it will then use the lower octane fuel and ignition maps. If it still senses too much engine noise it will not retard the timing above 4000rpm!!

If you can hear detonation through the firewall then it will be doing your engine damage. A good way to check for detonation is to have a look at your spark plugs and ckeck the insulator is not cracked, also you might see some pitting on the edges of the plug - this is more common.

Edited by rob82

If you want to be sure, get some time on a dyno (half hour should be more than enough).

Do you have proper cold air feed for the K&N? This is the biggest risk to get knocking; the engine is hauling in hot air from the engine bay, and hot air is bad air for a turbo.

The ECU diagnosis only reports faults; unless there is an actual fault in the knock sensors, the ECU will report "all clear".

My R33 gtst knock sensor shows over 4000rpm. thats a load of shit

the knock sensor is still reading noise of course, but i believe he's saying the ecu doesnt act on the knock sensor input above 4000rpm. i would imagine this may be because the sensor is receiving lots of engine noise above 4000rpm, but i'm only speculating, i've no idea if it's true or not.

no that is not correct. the powerfc is the only ecu i know of to make the engine light come on when knock > 60 level (adjustable level in datalogit).

what rob said is the stock ecu won't "consider" knocking levels over 4000rpm. the sensor still operate, just the ecu ignores them. the powerfc honours the knock sensors and display it on the hand controller at all times, regardless of rpm.

My R33 gtst knock sensor shows over 4000rpm. thats a load of shit

THe knock sensor is still active however the ECU disregards any noise it may pickup above 4000rpm. I believe that nissan turn it off at that rpm as there is too much engine noise above that point.

THe knock sensor is still active however the ECU disregards any noise it may pickup above 4000rpm. I believe that nissan turn it off at that rpm as there is too much engine noise above that point.

Thats not quite true.

Though u are close.

I use the stock ecu and with conzult it will pick up any detonation. It will spit out a knock sensor fault(code 34) if knock goes past the set level. I have had it spit out the code well after 5k and it will pick it up well before you will hear it too.

It will still pick up knock well into the revs.

On the ecu's ignition maps the ecu has a knock(self learn) area but this area is where it will keep increasing timing till knock then back it off a bit(self learning area). And this area is in the lower part of the revs (4000rpm and less).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...