Jump to content
SAU Community

Bad News for Me


Recommended Posts

Guest Miss_Nismo

I have an old engineers certificate, they don't care. I don't believe the car is dodgey as i have all the registration papers showing it has been registed with that engine.

Regency should really only be doing an identity inspection, but they "insisted" i get this modifation inspection done, now they have screwed me over. Why don't they update their ****ing figures to save people the time, hassle, and money of ****ing around for something that isn't even necessary.

I do have the measurements required, they were:

296x32mm and mine are 280x26

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Considering you've got all the documentation (engineering certificate, ex-NSW rego papers) it seems the Regency guys have decided to make their own rules! There's probably a small clause in the rego transfer guidelines that allows them to pretty much do as they please. Which is bullshit :)

May I ask if they actually said the brakes are to smaller diameter or they weren't legal....the reason I ask is that normally the measurement they check is the thickness of the disk and most of the 32's I have seen (Mine included) all have a sizeable lip on the rotor due to wear. Perhaps you just need some second hand 32 gtst disks that are the correct thickness, just a thought? Also in Australia I understood that all the wheels need is that funny little embossed symbol on the rim that states that it has passed certain design rules and that is enough to pass it, I just bought a set of rims for my new car and they are made in australia by ROH and they don't have the size marked on them.

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Miss_Nismo
Originally posted by BOOSTMEISTER

May I ask if they actually said the brakes are to smaller diameter or they weren't legal....the reason I ask is that normally the measurement they check is the thickness of the disk and most of the 32's I have seen (Mine included) all have a sizeable lip on the rotor due to wear.  Perhaps you just need some second hand 32 gtst disks that are the correct thickness, just a thought?  Also in Australia I understood that all the wheels need is that funny little embossed symbol on the rim that states that it has passed certain design rules and that is enough to pass it, I just bought a set of rims for my new car and they are made in australia by ROH and they don't have the size marked on them.

there is no mark on the mags at all that is the problem.

Guest Miss_Nismo

I am after the sizing of the R34 GT-t discs so that I can return to vehicle inspections and dispute the size they are saying i need on my car.

The R32 GTSt brake size is 280 x 26mm and they want me to get 296 x 32 mm, which inturn means i will probably have to opt for R32 GTR discs and calipers.

If i have the correct figures for the R34 brakes then i may be able to proove that the size they are quoting is bigger than what I really need.

Or maybe i just give up and get an engineers certificate! :uh-huh:

So far I have rang nissan and other well known jap performance companies in adelaide and no-one can give me this info.

Mel

Mel,

if you need a set of 32 gtst rims to borrow with new tyres on let me know - I have some sitting in my shed.

I also had a airbox which you could have used as well!

I am told 33GTS25t disks will fit into stock 32 calipers, and they are from memory about the size that you require

Chris

I just had my front discs replaced by DBA slotted rotors, and they tell me that they are 296 x 32... and i have a '95 GTS-t.

Are you sure GTS-t discs are too small? I have the old rotors here if you want them; they are in pretty good condition; no wear 'lip' - i can measure them if you want

On the DBA website they state that 33GTS25T rotors are 296x30, and R32 GTR rotors as 296x32. They don't have a listing for a R34GTT yet, but I would say they must be differant from the 33 otherwise they would have them listed. The rears are the same though.

What about fitting R33 GTS25T calipers with 32 GTR rotors? its only a 2mm differance in thickness so I reckon they might fit?

I spoke to Grant form Jap Import Dismantlers a week or so ago about the brakes on his car, as he put 32 GTR brakes on the front and rear, from memory he used new R33 rotors in the GTR calipers, and GTR calipers and discs on the back.

He reckons I should get 33GTS25T rotors for my car, which he says will fit in the stock 32 caliper. If you could get away with this, thats the way I would go

Their number is 8266 0212, tell him Chris sent you, he'll give you a good deal

I think Four Brothers Imports had about 4 32 GTR front cuts, might be worth a look?

the discs seem to be 30mm thick, and 300mm in diameter but its bit hard to tell with the wheels on, they use the same caliper as the 32GTR and the 33 gtst so if you could get hold of some 33 gtst brakes should be easiser than gtr stuff and some second hand discs that should do the job.

Guest Miss_Nismo
Originally posted by Clint32

the discs seem to be 30mm thick, and 300mm in diameter but its  bit hard to tell with the wheels on, they use the same caliper as the 32GTR and the 33 gtst so if you could get hold of some 33 gtst brakes should be easiser than gtr stuff and some second hand discs that should do the job.

i need 32mm thick discs

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Miss_Nismo

Well just when i thought it couldn't get any worse!

A long time mechanic of mine put a chuka chip in my front bumper which he refuses to repair.

Then, I found some GTR brakes, got them sent over, and they are GTSt brakes!

WTF is going on!

f^@k!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I can only offer moral support here...

Don't give up, you will get there.

It was certainly alot easier for me back then doing the engine swap when the car is still registered, only need mod plate for engine/gearbox and none of these nusense.

Seems like not long ago you had your pulsar engine transplant done.. :P

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...