Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For Sale.

A Brand New Fresh out of Jell Coat Fibre glass 'Banana Bar' For a R33 Nissan Skyline, which is ready for finishing and Painting.

The bar is designed with a big Front Mount opening and reinforced points to prevent stone cracking, and crucial stress points. Has 2 front air intakes and also 2 side brake intakes, advantages for track work.

The Banana Bar provides a very slick finish to any skyline and a fantastic upgrade to any front bar.

The Bar is mounted from Factory mount points and has pre marked cutting points.

Indicators are not sold with bar. - This can be organised.

Indicators are off a Nissan Cima Y31.

Bar is located in Melbourne, Pick up available and delivery can be arranged at buyer’s expense.

Selling Price - $450 Per bar

- $400 Per bar if 3 or More Purchased at once.

Pictures:

(Bar shown in Jell Coat)

post-11799-1141800744.jpg post-11799-1141800825.jpg

(Banana Bar Fitted)

post-11799-1141771634.jpeg

Contact - Matt

:Email - [email protected]

Or send me a PM

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108696-r33-custom-front-bar/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I can guarantee this bar suiting a series 1 with no issues, but if anyone can 100% confirm it fitting on a series 2 that would be appreciated.. Obviously minimal finishing will always be required.

  • 1 month later...

Made through a personal mate of mine with a Fiberglas company. It will fit no worries at all, only modification required is around the intercooler piping.. Obviously depends on the size of the hose...

  • 2 weeks later...

Does anyone else in Sydney want one of these? Maybe we could get a group buy of 3 happening or something. I will probably be interested, but not for a couple of weeks while I book the GTS in to get repaired. Mavric, how much extra would it cost to get 3 shipped to Sydney? If we can get 3 people together, you could ship them to one address and people could pick them up or I could drop them off, etc.

Also, do you know how much the indicators are roughly (are they GTR indicators?) and also the reinforcing strut bars, as my front bar is a complete writeoff and I don't think it had all the metal bars on the lower bit anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...