Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:burnout: Im bringing my old school skyline back from the dead

now i know these days R32 R33 R34 are the rave for the skyline models but i like the old one cause you don't see as many around and when done up they look nice

NOW i want to know i got a 1981-82 skyline i want to know what sort of make R30 my car is

i want to keep the motor as is but put little add ons to help with performance air filters -fuel- etc anyone got more info on these kind of mods i don't want to turbo the car it's got plenty of power for a 20 year old car it runs with holden 308's easily but i want to put a rear wing and a front bar on it and stuff so if anyone got some more info for us i would like that thanx to get my beast i got totravel from brisbane then head towards canberra to get it ?

i sold it to a car yard 3 years ago and it's been there since the bloke nearly tripled the price and now it's back to the price i sold it for so im grabbing it while i can?im from brisbane and once going i want to meet up with some of you's skyline fans any chance of that ?:shake:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10871-old-school-skyline-for-me/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest nismogtsx

The old school DR30 or R30 as know by some are well know for the FJ20 motor.... The old school 2.4 litre 6 is pretty gutless in compairison to the rb series of motors....

Plus they are very, very expensive to fix... I worked on one onc for a customer back in my auto-electric days and we ended up charging over $1400 for a basic re-wire.... It turned out to be my biggest night mare.... Those cars when in good condition run well.... But after 20 years the wiring gets a little tacky...

basically the wiring is good motor might need attention cause it has sat for so long and i'll be getting it back to how i had it

it's all standard but a few little mods , a few more and a reconditioned 2.4 ltr and i'll be sweet again?

maybe in the near future i might do a motor swap for something with turbo or nos or supercharged who knows with all the options?

Hi hoon69 I own an '84 R30 hatchback. I modded this car with a passion for 5 years. Then a couple of years ago some scumbags decided it was their turn, came back from a swim ..... empty space. Sh_t and the new tyres were still on my account. Got a call from the cops 3 days later. Cars a write-off, nose first into a drain. The wreck has sat in a shed since then waiting for me to do something. As I've recently bought an R32 GTS-t I don't know if I should wreck it, sell it complete or transfer all the good bits to an R30 sedan that I bought for that purpose. Mods include L28 2753cc P90 head engine with hi-lift cam heavy-duty valve springs, cold air induction, custom extractors, S.S. 2.25" exhaust, DYI quickshift, altered G/box ratios, R200 diff, O/size half shafts, DR30, front disc and calipers, konis all round, -40mm kings springs (front), nolathane bushes, revised lower arm mount points, adj. castor rods, F & R strut braces, nismo front seats, $5K stereo with 400 hour self install, round tail-lights, plus dozens of nice touches and reconditioned parts. It was a good ride while it lasted. If you are interested in the car or just want info on specific mods please P.M. me or post here.

Stang, BOoStEr here. Stock RB30 powered R31s made 118 KWs ,GTS1s 130 KWs, GTS2s 140 KWs The GTSs had nice S.S. extractors, exhaust, cam, head and ecu mods. I have an RB30 ecu with a Chiptorque programmable chip in it. It is currently programmed to suit Chiptorque spec. stage 3 camshaft , O/size throttlebody, H.M. headers and 2.25" sports exhaust. These mods are good for 140 KWs+.I might sell these parts minus the exhaust (to suit RB30 VL). Problems I,ve encountered in aussie R31s--- noisy diffs (premature gear wear),crank angle sensor (usually dirty connector plugs or degree wheel in distributor). Any questions just P.M. me or post here.

Stang, I'd be guessing a bit as prices vary a bit from place to place. Value dependant upon condition moreso than age.

A series3 may bring $1000 or so more than an early model in the same condition.

GX,GXE $2000-$5000

Silhouette,Ti $3000-$7000

GTS1 $7000-$11000 (only 200 made) Lots of fakes

GTS2 $8000-$12000 (only 200 made) " " "

Genuine GTSs have a numbered badge on the glovebox.

As a collectors vehicle a vendor may feel justified holding out for a

higher price for an exceptional GTS.

darkhalf, S.S. is stainless steel. I'd bet the SVD extractors had more R & D than the hurricanes.

Stang You don't want a locked diff on the street. They are only at their best on the dragstrip or on a dirt track. If they are done properly they are stronger but suffer a lot more stresses on corners. If you are worried about the aussie diffs you could always buy a jap HR31 instead and get IRS and LSD.They have a tougher diff and are usually a bit cheaper than an aussie GTS but they only come as coupe or 4door pillarless.

BOoStEr

darkhalf, S.S. is stainless steel

duh! thanks !!!

I'd bet the SVD extractors had more R & D than the hurricanes.

thats what I thought until I swapped them over from the hurricanes on my GTS 1 engine. lost a bit of power because of the port size difference (smaller than the ports in the head). now im shaving the GTS extractor ports to 36mm cause i got my new exhaust fitted to these extractors last week :D

Stang, It's too much trouble to fit the jap independent rear end to the aussie R31 as these all had Borg Warner solid axle rear ends like the VL. I've heard people say they will try but I've never seen it done. If drifting was the only type of driving ever used then locked might be a cheap way out but a good LSD is always worth the extra money. A good diff place should be able to recommend some tough internals with LSD for stock aussie diff housing.Make sure you get lower than stock ratio(3.7:1) if you want to drift eg. 4.1:1.

Maybe we should apologise to hoon69 for 'jacking his thread.

hoon69 If your Skyline is an MR30 with the L24E engine a good set of extractors and a 2.25" sports exhaust (get rid of left to right tail pipe extention) will help a lot. Get rid of the airfilter cross-pipe and duct cold air through the radiator support panel into the top of the airbox and replace the std filter with a K&N panel filter or similar. Get good plugs and leads and make sure the distributor is in good condition. Beyond this further mods require more money than you should probably spend on this motor. The L-jetronic computer is the old analog type and is very inflexible.It requires electronic tricks to accomodate any mods.if you really want to make good power out of this motor you will need a programmable ecu. Then you could make a custom inlet manifold, do some headwork, cam, and raise the compression. An L28E bolts straight in and looks stock and has another 360ccs. how far do you want to go?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...