Old School Skyline For Me

[Guest hoon69]

for now i want to keep the motor till $ is all saved for a bigger project

i was getting the cam done and the head as well ,and plugs and leads will be first with a tune up as well and the injectors cleaned and i want to change the dizzo for xtra spark the cold air and air filter is a good idea i did want to do that but whats the average price for this nothing to big?

it already has a a sports exhaust and it was new when i sold it but no extractors.

the standard motor is good

as the motor i do have has never failed on me i gave it a thrashing and still wouldn't break down on me so this motor is reliable and will be kept with whatever mods i do to it ?maybe if i get anough mods on this motor and get enough kws out of this motor i might be happy with kepping it in.(standard looking)tell me what is the most kws i can hope for coming from this motor STANDARD and with these mods in hand how much more will i get ?can you tell me kws from now and after mods..

for now i will start with cold air and filters, extractors,new dizzo,

[BOoStEr]

The std '81 MR30 makes 102 KWs at the flywheel. Good extractors and exhaust may be worth 20 KWs on this car. The cold air ducting about 3 KWs. You can get about 4 KW with thermo fans but my car ran a little hot with the A/c on. To get more than 130 KWs from this motor is difficult and expensive due to the old computer and the restrictive inlet manifold. You could probably pay for an RB20DET conversion (160KW) with the money it would cost to get 140 KWs from the L24.

I made the cold air ducting myself with 65mm stormwater pipe and angle fittings. It cost less than $20 but was a bit of messing around. At about $100 the K&N panel filter might not be worth it for 1-2 KWs. Just use a std paper filter. A heathy stock dizzy and coil have a fairly high output and don't need upgrading yet. It's hard to get a significant gain from the cam without stuffing up the idle because the computer can't compensate for the loss of inlet vacuum so it runs lean and misses.

If I were you I'd just make sure the std motor is in good condition, fit some extractors and save up for that bigger project.

[Guest hoon69]

yeah thanx B0oStEr i think for that much gain i would be better of leaving it standard and saving for the bigger kws motor i might not put extractors on i might do the filters and air induction and fan and leave it at that.as i feel the motor has enough power for me at the moment and i'd be saving for the motor replacement ?

How much is it for the rb20det these days and is there much work to put it in or does it go straight in?

[rampagex]

I've just had my '86 gxe broken into and all the sound gear stolen! very annoying! A few days later i went to have a look at an r34 gts-t, awesome car, awesome price tag . I had a guy in Perth tell me that I can't fit extractors to my car because of the aluminum block and i also can't get a new chip installed because, and i quote, "it's soldered in and nobody has bothered programming anything else for this model car because it's too old"? Please tell me if somebody is pulling my leg?

thanks!

[RUX]

Originally posted by rampagex

...and i also can't get a new chip installed because, and i quote, "it's soldered in and nobody has bothered programming anything else for this model car because it's too old"? Please tell me if somebody is pulling my leg?

thanks!

I reckon he is, cos its the same ECU used in the VL Commodore and you're telling me hardly anyone has modified the ECU on a VL??? come on!

[predator]

Yer, i'd definitely consider a swap of something a bit newer like an RB30 (cheap), RB20, or RB25 into it (although Rb25 will be bit expensive i think for just swap). Will have something old and retro with a fair bit of go then.

haha.. i sold my R31 GXE for $2000 before i got my 33.. still worked a treat at 280,000km.. just some minor body damage unfortunatey, but the rest was really fine for its age//

[cyrius]

hey every1, yea i got an R30 Skyline hatchbak Ti with the std L24E engine. The only mod done to it is the airbox replaced with a K&N pod filter.

im in the same situation as hoon69 at the moment, im maybe considering doin an engine swap as soon as iv'e saved enough money but im just trying to get as much info as possible before I do it.

Checking prices at Adelaide Jap Dismantlers i found:

-FJ20 Turbo Twin Cam 1990cc, 4 Cylinder, 190hp, RWD - $2000 includes gearbox, wiring loom, computer, and all sensores required to run engine

This I have considered, because im assuming that the FJ series should pretty much fit straight into my R30.

Im not sure wot would need to be changed to get an RB series into my engine bay, but if its not too difficult i'd consider maybe:

-RB20 Turbo Twin cam, 6 cylinder, 1998cc, 24 valve, RWD, late model, 215hp - $2500 including gearbox, wiring loom etc...

or if its even possible:

-RB25DET 2498cc, Twin cam, turbo, 6 Cylinder, 4WD. 250hp - $4000 including gearbox, wiring loom etc...

Any comments or information regarding this kind of project would be apprechiated.

[Guest hoon69]

i got prices a little cheaper up here in qld,half cut it was im getting..at this stage,im going to ask my performance worx shop in brisso what i might be able to do to the j24 r30 stock engine,head work valves etc see what might be easier,i got a strong 5 speed which is the original one,im saving up and then i'll make my decision about the engine swap...some might say is it worth it,just buy a later 88 model or save for a r32,33 nah old skool for me,its rare and in its own catergory..

yeah a rb25det conversion sould be tight and a handful but should fit..

[rsx84]

i've got two r30's and an r31 gxe, when it comes to the r30 there are a great range of models, the one you see the most of is the l24e comes in sedan and 5 door hatch, i think the hatch came with all round disk brakes and full electrics dont know about the sedan, then there are the specials i've got a mate with the paul newmen (check spelling) version, now this comes with the l20et higher rated engine (hes getting around 200HP at the fly) I've got an hr30 coupe which also came with the l20et but this version has about 120HP at the fly (not the best) then there the rsx's these came in 2 and 4 door all with FJ20 the earlier ones came with the non-turdo then there was the FJ20t about 215HP in a nice light car very nice.i'm putting the r32 rb20det into mine for a more smoother power delivery and promise for more power,in a car that ways less than 1200 k's shoud go OK?

[SKY031]

Originally posted by Stang

I'm interested in getting a late 80s R31 Skyline, probably the Oz-spec model. What are the best ways to get more power without an engine swap?  

T03 (or bigger!)

[cyrius]

Originally posted by rsx84

the one you see the most of is the l24e comes in sedan and 5 door hatch, i think the hatch came with all round disk brakes and full electrics dont know about the sedan

Yea your right about the hatch having all round disk brakes but i think its only the Ti model which has all electrics like mine, i've seen heaps of the R30 hatches without the electrics tho, had heaps of trouble trien to get parts for the power windows when they stuffed up but I was lucky enough to find one down at the local U-Pull-It.

[stu_r30]

to revive this topic i just wanted to know whether anyone can confirm that an rb20 will slip straight into an r30, coz i got got about 2-3k to blow on some turb goodness

have heard that to fit an rb25 will need to change the sump location to fit in but otherwise thats it.

any clues??

[rsx84]

i've put a rb20det into my r30, there were a few troubles with the swap as the gearbox sits a little back so some cutting is needed to get it into place about 1/2 an ", then the brake master cylinder was swapped to let the engine fit for the r32 version the engine had to be lifted as i used the radiator from the r32 as well try to get the wiring diagram for the rb20 version you get as it is a great help. all in all i eaded up with a power figger 160?rwkw (with some standard changers) and a weight of 1100 odd kgs but mind is a two door thought.

[rsx84]

sorry for the spelling had to wright fast as it logs me out if i take to long?? but its good to see someone talking about r30s' again, thier not that old are, they still have some style.

[Guest hoon69]

thanx for reviving it,but my ones going to be sold now,its still original as it sits down canberra way,anyone want it its a 4 door though,$800 ono its yours..

im unable to get it back to qld unless someone knows a cheap transporter who'll cart it up from A.C.T way to qld..?

[stu_r30]

so an rb20 fits without much of a hassle

then surely an rb25 couldnt be much more of a hassle to dump in

also, is the 25 really worth the extra money over an rb20 half cut

as a daily driver?

thanks

[rsx84]

i did the swap just for the fun of pulling up next to one of the many r32's here on the coast then pulling away as i hit second just with light mods. power to weight does make a difference. you just have to look at the cost to power figure for your version as it can save money in the long run.

[rsx84]

stu-r30 whats the price on half cuts there anyway?

[stu_r30]

half cuts from an r32 gtst are like 2k

r33 are upwards of 3.5k

so i will prolly get rb20 and throw in a gtr cooler/pump and usual mods so nuthin breaks.

are rb20's really that gutless off boost as everyone sez.

the fact that r30's are like 1200kg would make it less noticeable right?

[PHaT MR30]

Yeh i got an MR30 with L28, the J-tronics copmuter is really holding it back. the car has since been crashed into lightly and iam waiting an insurance payout. i then want to spend about $10K on her and fit a 25T in i reckon that would be really interesting. as my car currently keeps with a R33 on its low boost setting to about 70 kmh if i get a good start.

rsx84: so have you done the swap? i want to know if the rumors are true about the X member not just being a straight swap (ie steering rack and sump clearance)

mine is not a hatch or a Ti but it has AC and has been converted to Disc rear, it has had some sort of bias adjustment done to it to compensate for the change from drums, but i feel its not right as it does not like to sit on the brakes (slips clutch)

also anybody got an ideas how to fix -ive camber problem when you lower it extremely? the belly of my car nearly touches the ground when i plant my foot and i have about 4 degrees of -ive camber on rear and it like to chew through tyres. only fix i know is datsport in adelaide modifys it, but i don't really wanna send it over there till i can be sure