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Its the best way to learn, its as simple as replacing batteries in your remote. In fact even easier, you can't put it in back to front!

Just google a tutorial, or some pictures of your motherboard (manual even?) you really can't go wrong.

Ive heard laptops are harder to do?

Steve - got an email from them, they dont stock the Opteron 170

Been playni that GRID game.

Damn its the hardest game in the world. drifting is just plain f**kin annoying to start with. Finally started looping some corners. Then bang straight into walls etc.

graphics nice

gameplay shit to start with.

GRID is ok i bought it for the drift

Damo - >>Search<< i also have one im looking at from the states and that $139 but has the make an offer button + $18 shipping so if he takes a offer of $100us then that would be reasonable oh its brand new too and i would get 2gb of G-skill ddr400 also for like $79 make and offer for like $69

  • 2 weeks later...

Hello lads, long time no see.

Just built myself a new machine, wife wasn't super happy.

Asus P5E-X38

Intel E8400

4GB Kingston Hyper-X DDR2 800

Corsair HX620 PSU

Antec P182 Case

Leadtek 9800GTX

Pioneer 212D SATA DVDRW (from previous box)

4 x WD 500GB SATA (grrr the 640s were out of stock and came in the next day)

Viewsonic 28" LCD VX2835wm (ok I had this for a few months)

Hopefully this will keep me entertained for a while, with only a CPU upgrade once applications actually start using multiple cores properly.

Hello lads, long time no see.

Just built myself a new machine, wife wasn't super happy.

Asus P5E-X38

Intel E8400

4GB Kingston Hyper-X DDR2 800

Corsair HX620 PSU

Antec P182 Case

Leadtek 9800GTX

Pioneer 212D SATA DVDRW (from previous box)

4 x WD 500GB SATA (grrr the 640s were out of stock and came in the next day)

Viewsonic 28" LCD VX2835wm (ok I had this for a few months)

Nice!!

with only a CPU upgrade once applications actually start using multiple cores properly.

Fair call

Edited by NizmoNigga

ey guys had a thread on here but guess it got deleted for some reason

anyway just started up a business called systematic computers. So if any of you guys need any stuff cheap i hopefully can do some good deals for you guys. Pm me for any prices you need or post up on here.

Adam

Systematic Computers

^^^^ yeah mate I deleted your thread (you should have gotten an email explaining why) .... anyhow 1) you can't advertise businesses on SAU unless you are a sponsor, and 2) it is pretty bad form to join up and a week later start advertising your business. This is a car forum. Imagine if every man and his dog just made a new post advertising their business or services - it would become an advertising forum rather than Skyline forum.

I will let your post above stand, as the rules are a bit relaxed in this thread, and you are local. But you find that pretty much all of us do our own systems and buy parts ourselves online or from MSY.

Ok fellas it's tax time which means now comes the time for me to break away from my bros laptop and finally build myself a worthy gaming computer.

I have very little knowledge of brands/specs etc of hardware so I need a bit of a run down on what I should be looking at. I'm on a reasonable budget but I don't want anything amazing, just a computer that will run some nice games etc.

Any takers?

Hello lads, long time no see.

Just built myself a new machine, wife wasn't super happy.

Asus P5E-X38

Intel E8400

4GB Kingston Hyper-X DDR2 800

Personally I'd get a cheaper brand in 1066mhz DDR2 ram., that way you can easily reap the benefits from overclocking the E8400, can get a lot more power out of them then stock. For example my E6600 I've overclocked from 2.4ghz to 3.2ghz on stock volts and cooling, stable running 24/7.

edit: What Dohmar said about latency is true, however a bigger overclock is better then either.

Edited by Rolls
Ok fellas it's tax time which means now comes the time for me to break away from my bros laptop and finally build myself a worthy gaming computer.

I have very little knowledge of brands/specs etc of hardware so I need a bit of a run down on what I should be looking at. I'm on a reasonable budget but I don't want anything amazing, just a computer that will run some nice games etc.

Any takers?

Yeah I got a bit of an idea.... decent graphics card, dont worry about SLI or X-fire cause thats shit. the 8800 GT is one of the sweet gfx cards atm, and I think it plays most games at the moment rather well. Get a reputable motherboard, anything over $200 will be decent but if you spend the extra $100 it'll be well worth it. An Intel Core2Quad or a Core2Duo will be the best bet, I think the Q6600 is still a nice price. Dont skimp on ram, something with low latency and a decent brand (like corsair or OCZ) will handle the system nicely. Low latency is more important than ram with a faster front side bus ratio... as for hard drives, I'd recommend getting either 2 SATA-II Hdd's in a Raid 1 Mirror Array OR A WD Raptor 10k rpm drive as your c: And get the two SATA-II 7200 rpm drives as data storage, again in a Raid 1 Mirror. This way if one of the data drives fails you at least have a live backup of your data and can simply replace the dodgy hdd in the series. Theres a lot of cash you can spend on HDD's, it really all depends on how diligent you are when it comes to backing up data. Dont bother with an aftermarket soundcard, the sound chips you get on $300 motherboards usually have 7.1 Dolby audio... get a nice keyboard and mouse, nothing cheap otherwise you'll end up with RSI and carpal tunnel. Get a decent monitor, something with a nice contrast ratio and refresh rate are much more important than size or widescreen... you can get a blue-ray dvd burner if you have loads of money to burn but for now I'd just settle on a dual layer dvd burner cause theres not a huge amount of blue ray stuff out at the moment. If you can reuse stuff from your current PC, bonus. Other thing I would recommend is investing in some extra cooling in the way of silent case fans and perhaps a big aftermarket heatsink and fan. I dont overclock but I've found that having a big HSF combo keeps the system performing silently in the hottest weather. Logitech make nice 5.1 speakers if you're going to invest in some nice audio...

Could go on and on for ages ;P It all depends on what u wanna do and what ur budget is. I don't sell hardware anymore but I've been in the IT game for 15 years now so if you have any questions, shoot me a pm...

-D

Personally I'd get a cheaper brand in 1066mhz DDR2 ram., that way you can easily reap the benefits from overclocking the E8400, can't get a lot more power out of them then stock. For example my E6600 I've overclocked from 2.4ghz to 3.2ghz on stock volts and cooling, stable running 24/7.

I would never recommend anyone get cheaper ram. Especially when you're overclocking. The ram is rated upon the FSB ratio which is bandwidth. Bandwidth is useless if you have high latency. And if you get high latency ram, its generally stress tested at higher FSB ratios while keeping the recommended latency settings...

-D

Disagreed, going to 1066 ram meant I could get an extra 400mhz out of my cpu. This made a huge difference in performance. Trust me there really isn't that much difference to the extra latency, I can dig up some comparisons and graphs if you want.

Disagreed, going to 1066 ram meant I could get an extra 400mhz out of my cpu. This made a huge difference in performance. Trust me there really isn't that much difference to the extra latency, I can dig up some comparisons and graphs if you want.

Overclocking is not the answer, not when you're a lay-person. Not only would he have to tune with a lot of trial and error, but he'd be running most of his hardware past its recommended frequencies, not to mention the cooling issues you have... for me and you, sure, overclocking can be worth it with the right hardware but considering he's not a guru, I'd never advise overclocks. It'll cost him $$ for technicians in the long run.

-D

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Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. 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    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. 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    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
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