Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 216
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well ive gone through just over half a tank after changing the O2 sensor and fuel economy seems to be unchanged, i will be changing the air filter to a K&N equivalent panel filter, perhaps that may make a difference.

im running out of ideas, ive already changed O2 Sensor, fuel filter, used injector cleaner.

anybody have some other ideas?

Had the same problem but have not actually got around to changing my 02 sensor, its still just unplugged at the moment. Mileage went up by about 80kms per $60 of petrol though. Not sure whether it will get better or worse when I plug it back in with the new one. Before I unplugged it it was running so rich I'm sure there was raw fuel coming out the back end :dry:

Lead foot does play a big part though. Drove from Hamilton to Auckland (about 80km) like a Nana then drove a 3rd of the way back (about 25km) at 120km/h & I had used about twice as much gas as I did for the whole distance of the original trip. Went back to driving like a Nana for the remaining 55kms.

Edited by tRUkbOY

my latest tank yielded 263.6km for 61.06L thats 23.16L/100Km

...thats rediculous!

i admit that i gave it a bit of stick on this tank of fuel, however its starting to be beyond a joke, when you consider the car is mostly standard.

it seems to be getting progressively worse as each tank passes, so im leaning towards the problem being with the airflow meter.

i'll try and get it checked/replaced soon to see if its the problem. anyone got an idea of what they are worth?

agreed - get a Z32 afm. There was a group buy recently for around $300.

or 2ndhand ones are around the $200 mark, same for a Q45 afm.

both q45 and z32 'read' more than a standard rb25afm..............

then tune the a/f ratios with a SAFC and you'll get better mileage!

my mileage has gone down hill big time, using 15kms more per 1/4 tank, since I intsalled the free flowing CAI box. I need a retune of the SAFC but its too damn expensive........ need to save up for the bigarsed turbo first!

well i bought the standard AFM from wolverine (cheers heaps for that Andrew) and ive fitted it to my stag.

i noticed straight away that the small amount of backfiring i used to have, has ceased, so hopefully it will answer my fuel economy crisis.

I went and filled up my tank at the servo and reset the trip odometer, so i'll let you guys know the outcome.

I switched from my 19's to 16's a couple of weeks ago, as decided to get new rims.

Anyway in the last 3 week's l've been getting about 75km's more a tank than l was when l had the 19's, which surprised me that it made that much of a difference.

Getting 18's next week ... hopefully it won't change too much with them.

WOOHOO!!!

after replacing my AFM with the second hand one that i bought from wolverine, my fuel consumption has gone from 23L/100Kms to 14.3L/100Kms

the backfiring did come back, so a tune with the DFA will increase it even more. ill probably get it done once ive finished my exhaust

>_<:D:D:(:):D:D:D:D

To increase my fuel ecconomy I went out & bought a little N13 pulsar!!! Now instead of spending $80 per week on fuel just to go to & from work, it now costs me $70 per f/n to fuel both cars!!! I figure it'll take about 3 months for the pulsar to pay for itself in fuel & then i'll be saving $$$. (not bad for a $500 car!!!!!)

Plus i get the bonus of not clocking the km's up on the stagea!

If you knew a Stagea was only going to give you 15l/100k would you buy one. If the answer is NO, then you dont deserve a Stagea!

You gotta love Nissans to buy one. Fuel consumption is the last priority on the list.

But after you doget one, S1 or S2, there are many ways to improve fuel consumption.

At the moment I am building a Jaycar DFA,a Smart Fuel mixture Display and a Hand Controller.

Thats the first step, and I'll keep an eye on the O2 sensor and the A/F sensor.

I'll keep you posted.

thats it mate, i just enjoy the drive these days and just accept the cost. Its completely worth it. FFS 15L isnt THAT bad really.

My mates dad's 550 maranello has a 110L tank and drinks 2 of those a week when it was a street car (work and back + some fun)

I've had the DFA in the car for a year now, and it still pops when you pull back into second gear on the overrun (that is probably the 3 inch exhaust working there).

In any case, just reporting in that I got to drive the thing (an old series 1 stag with auto) for a full tank on the highway, down to the goldcoast and back, then up to the sunshine coast and back to Brisbane, then back up to Bribie last week. With the mods as mentioned in post 58 of this thread, it went 583 km before the light went on. When I filled it back up, it took 58 Litres of BP ultimate. Result ! thats 9.95 L per 100 km. whohoooo, into the 9's !

The thing is tuned lean at cruise (15.5: 1 air fuel ratio) using the DFA and a wide band O2 sensor, no need to take it to a dyno shop for the tune, with the wide band in the car, you tune it as you drive. I know its supposed to cruise at 14.7: 1 in closed loop, but there must be a limit to the amount of trim the computer pulls back into the cruise mixture over time, so if you monitor the fuel ratios every month or so with the wide band, you can see at the start the computer tries to put fuel back in, but after pulling fuel out again the second or third time, the computer must run out of trim in the cruise load zones, thus I can happily cruise at 15.5 to even 16:1 and get an additional 8-10% fuel economy. It is a little doughy at cruise, but the additional ignition advance which comes in at the same time when tuning with the DFA helps there.

The clincher has been the revised valve body in the auto, which helps it hold onto the lockup on the converter longer, and also the fact that it seems to get 5- 8% better fuel economy when running on BP ultimate compared when it runs on optimax. Dunno why, obviously ultimate is a different fuel composition, but it certainly gets better mileage on BP ultimate.

Anyways boys, try to beat that on the highway and get yours into the 9's.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • This is the other log file, if only we had exhaust manifold pressure - would understand what's going on a bit better   Can you take a screenshot of your wastegate setup in the Kebabtech?   Engine Functions --> Boost Control (looks like this):  
    • You just need a datalogger of some sort. A handheld oscilloscope could do it, because it will make the trace visible on screen, so you can look at the peak, or whatever you need to look at. And there are cheap USB voltage loggers available too. You could get a 2 channel one and press a button to feed voltage to the second channel at points that you want to check the sensor voltage, when you knew what the guage was saying, for example.
    • it's not the issue with making power, it's the issue with controlling boost, and this isn't the first time I've seen a 6Boost having issue with controlling boost down low.   The boost control here looks interesting.   Looking at your logs, looks like it's set to open loop boost control strategy (which is fine). We can see VCT being kept on till about 6600RPM (no issue with that). Ignition timing (I'm assuming this is E85, seems within reason too, nothing too low, causing hot EGTS and boost spiking). There's about 15 degrees of advance when your boost shoots up, however can't be this as the timing isn't single digits. I'm assuming there's no EMAP data, as I wasn't able to find it in the logs. We can see your tuner sets the WG DC to 0% after 4300RPM, trying to control boost.   My thoughts, what frequency is your wastegate set to?  AND why aren't you using both ports for better control?
    • While that sounds reasonable, this is definitely a boost control problem, but the real question is why are you having the boost control problem? Which is why I pondered the idea that there's a problem at ~4000rpm related to head flow. In that instance, you are not yet under boost control - it's still ramping up and the wastegate is yet to gain authority. So, I'm thinking that if the wastegate is not yet open enough to execute control, but the compressor has somehow managed ot make a lot of flow, and the intake side of the head doesn't flow as well as the exhaust side (more on that later), then presto, high MAP (read that as boost overshoot). I have a number of further thoughts. I use butterfly valves in industrial applications ALL THE TIME. They have a very non-linear flow curve. That is to say that there is a linear-ish region in the middle of their opening range, where a 1% change in opening will cause a reasonably similar change in flow rate, from one place to another. So, maybe between 30% open and 60% open, that 1% change in opening gives you a similar 2% change in flow. (That 2% is pulled out of my bum, and is 2% of the maximum flow capacity of the valve, not 2% of the flow that happens to be going through the valve at that moment). That means that at 30% open, a 1% change in opening will give you a larger relative flow increase (relative to the flow going through the valve right then) compared to the same increment in opening giving you the same increment in flow in outright flow units. But at 60% opening, that extra 2% of max flow is relatively less than 1/2 the increase at 30% opening. Does that make sense? It doesn't matter if it doesn't because it's not the main point anyway. Below and above the linear-ish range in the middle, the opening-flow curve becomes quite...curved. Here's a typical butterfy valve flow curve. Note that there is a very low slope at the bottom end, quite steep linear-ish slope in the middle, then it rolls off to a low slope at the top. This curve shows the "gain" that you get from a butterfly valve as a function of opening%. Note the massive spike in the curve at 30%. That's the point I was making above that could be hard to understand. So here's the point I'm trying to make. I don't know if a butterfly valve is actually a good candiate for a wastegate. A poppet valve of some sort has a very linear flow curve as a function of opening %. It can't be anyelse but linear. It moves linearly and the flow area increases linearly with opening %. I can't find a useful enough CV curve for a poppet valve that you could compare against the one I showed for the butterfly, but you can pretty much imagine that it will not have that lazy, slow increase in flow as it comes off the seat. It will start flowing straight away and increase flow very noticeably with every increase in opening%. So, in your application, you're coming up onto boost, the wastegate is closed. Boost ramps up quite quickly, because that's really what we want, and all of a sudden it is approaching target boost and the thing needs to open. So it starts opening, and ... bugger all flow. And it opens some more, and bugger all more flow. And all the while time is passing, boost is overshooting further, and then finally the WG opens to the point where the curve starts to slope upwards and it gains authority amd the overshoot is brought under control and goes away, but now the bloody thing is too open and it has to go back the other way and that's hy you get that bathtub curve in your boost plot. My position here is that the straight gate is perhaps not teh good idea it looks like. It might work fine in some cases, and it might struggle in others. Now, back to the head flow. I worry that the pissy little NA Neo inlet ports, coupled with the not-very-aggressive Neo turbo cam, mean that the inlet side is simply not matched to the slightly ported exhaust side coupled with somewhat longer duration cam. And that is not even beginning to address the possibility that the overlap/relative timing of those two mismatched cams might make that all the worse at around 4000rpm, and not be quite so bad at high rpm. I would be dropping in at least a 260 cam in the inlet, if not larger, see what happens. I'd also be thinking very hard about pulling the straight gate off, banging a normal gate on there and letting it vent to the wild, just as an experiment.
    • Not a problem at all Lithium, I appreciate your help regardless. I've pulled a small part of a log where the target pressure was 28psi and it spiked to 36.4psi. I've only just begun using Data Log Viewer so if I'm sending this in the wrong format let me know.
×
×
  • Create New...