Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

people have bike chains right... if you leave your car outside un insured. get some massive ass chains and wrap it all around the diff and axles and rims and everything else!! haha well mayb not....

my cars always in the drive way, theres no way i could stop someone that knew what they were doing from stealling it. i think immobilizers are the only way to go. am i right?

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

people have bike chains right... if you leave your car outside un insured. get some massive ass chains and wrap it all around the diff and axles and rims and everything else!! haha well mayb not....

my cars always in the drive way, theres no way i could stop someone that knew what they were doing from stealling it. i think immobilizers are the only way to go. am i right?

If particular (shifty) people in some workshops install it then there isnt much an immobiliser is going to do. I still reckon a Club Lock is one of the best things to have, and specifically a good quality one! THe only time i never had it on my other car was the only time ive ever had a car stolen, the same night my dad reminded me to use it....thankfully it was found within 20 minutes at a service station trying to fill up petrol! (I owned a VR4 Cordia Turbo back then).

Another thing you can do is remove a fuse when you get out of the car (depending on the length of time you are gone), or produce some small fuse like adaptor where you can just take one fuse out or even something simpler to the fuel pump. It'll have em confused for ages -> If they have a truck......well, i'm still yet to figure out to prevent that except for parking it in a shed and on a really hard angle (which takes about a 20-point turn to get out :D). You can also install an alarm yourself if you're handy with electronics, that way you're the only one that knows the whole configuration straight off (given its not a generic alarm)

Good to hear that the car was found. Any idea on the condition?

Edited by DC_GTST

yeah but if it works out that its not worthwhile insuring doesn't mean you shouldn't be able to get the car, OR post up if its been stolen!!

He's the one gonna lose out in the end if it gets stolen or written off so i don't know why people are giving him so much shit for not insuring it.

I didn't insure mine cause it worked out that if i don't have it stolen or write it off within 3 years i'll pay off the car with what i save!! Its a risk you chose to take, and if mine gets pinched you can be assured i'll be posting asking for people to look out for it, but not for sympathy that i chose not to comprehensively insure!

get a steering wheel lock and if u cant afford a real alarm, get a blinker in your dash or next to ur steering wheel in clear view of the windows. if you park it outside, get a car cover that fits your car perfectly and good straps to hold em down so wind doesnt make the covers scratch your car. spend good money on anti theft such as these and you have a less chance of theft. they usually go for cars in plain view and look easy to get in. one with a steering wheel lock will definately get skipped by a potential theft. get a deck with removable face and if your parking at home, take it in with you. also ive seen some decks that you could replace the face with a plain black face so that it looks part of the car and nothing important. have a cover for speakers or subs that are in clear view like below the back window and in the doors. tinted windows are good for night times as its harder to see inside but ofcourse most of the peoples on here probably have tinted windows any way.

just make sure, make theft for the thief as hard as possible and least appealing

give him reason to move away to another car.

park inside where you can, and if you park in a carpark outside or inside, park close to other cars and people.

on a funnier note, park next to other skylines that look way better then yours and you would lesson the chance of gettin it stolen.

just a few tips ive gathered after many car thefts. luckily (or rather unluckily) they've been my friends car, mostly my family friends car.

i probably wont be able to afford my own insurance so i'll be using these precautions on my car. and if i drive to uni or a large carpark where its not supervised or far from people. ill take my parents cars and let them take mine. they park my car in their field of vision all day so much safer for my car. and im sure theyd love a change of vehicles. rather then drive a slow and heavey tarago theyd love to drive my skyline. (good tip if you want them to pay for fuel aswell, give them an empty tank)

have fun with your cars but best wishes to never get it stolen.

$1000 alarm, $800 carminder.

I wouldnt pay $5000 a year in insurance. I shouldnt have to. It's legal theft.

$1000 alarm? How many car alarms do you hear going off during the day, and not think twice about it.....

legal theft you reckon?

Its a calculated risk actually.....

Your driving your modified $40K R33 GTR down the road and pull out in front of a $100K 2006 Mercedes (or any car that matter) and cause tens of thousands of $$ damage to both cars. Instead of that $3K insurance premium you had to pay, you now sorting out a $50K loan to fix 2 cars......

And how about this......

Your driving your modified $40K R33 GTR down the road and someone pulls out in front of you. Totally devastated about being hit by a $500 Corolla owner with no insurance and no clue, how do you go about getting $20K off them to fix your GTR without using physical force? Well insurance companies will take legal action to get this money and have your vehicle fixed....

Insurance is NOT legal theft. People may suspect this, or come up with this notion, but until they make a claim and get paid out and are happy with the service, then I suppose they will never understand.

P.S, I feel this way as I have had a $15K R33 GTS-t written off by an old lady who fell asleep at the wheel, the car was insured and my $1600 premium turned out to be an excellent investment.....

Edited by _8OO5TED_

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...