R34 Coil Packs

[Booya]

Im lost on trying to get to the R34 coil packs.

I think there under the plastic cap then sits then under another part which sits across the middle of the engine and are screwed in via allen keys

Any help would be appreciated.

[GTX-R34]

Yes, they are located under the centre panel on top of the engine. If you are having misfire problems, remove each coil and wipe them down with a bit of degreaser. Before refitting, spray them with a silicon spray to lubricate threads in coil mountings and to help prevent spark from going elsewhere. Should take about half an hour but ensures peak engine performance.

[driftmeister]

Hi Booya,

read my post under Misfiring. Hope it help you. Cheers!

[mad34]

get some splitfires. they work wonders. r34 coil packs are shit! mine f'd up after 60000k's. a whole set of splitfires are $550 form perfectrun.com.au. Trust me you wonrt regret it.

[driftmeister]

mad34, I managed to fixed my problem but not switching on my sound system as it drws too much current from my battery.

However i do want to upgrade the coil, do you have the Splitfire part code number for ER34 GTT? what heat range plugs r u running now & at what boost? I want to boost up to 0.8 to 0.9 bar but wondering whether the standard plugs can take it or not? What is the boost cut for our type of engine?

[mad34]

the part number SIF-DIS-008 are for the er34. get them from perfectrun.com.au he was the cheapet and only took 5 days to deliver.

i am running NGK copper pre gapped to .8 heat rating of 7. Boost cut is around/ fuel cut or whatever its called is around 14-14.5psi i think. At the moment i am only running 11psi though i was running more(14psi) at one stage, but i have a gone conservative again. so as to save my self from blowing my turbo becasue i have no money to replace it at the moment.

[driftmeister]

Thanks for the part no. info.

I am gonna run my car for awhile to enjoy the drive again since i managed to fix the misfiring atm. Intend to buy a boost controller, any recommendation. I'm looking at the Blitz Id (latest) or HKS, but the HKS is kinda pricey and wonder is it any better to pay so much.

Good to know another GTT owner as we will suffer the same problems everynow and then.

What other mods have you done to the car so far?

[mad34]

yeah enjoy it. If it aint broke dont fix it i suppose.

eventually the standard coils will go though i had two go at different times. i got sick of getting to the coils everytime. I think the company that nissan got to make the r34 coils botched them or they heat up more than the r 33 ones becasue they are bolted straight onto the head instead of the of a plate. i dont know but it seems to be a real common problem.

i have a full exhaust, airfilter, blitz lm fmic, greddy profec e01 ebc, and greddy emanage ultimate.

what about you?

[driftmeister]

I tried removing the Fuse for the audio amp then switching on my player with just the rear original speaker. The player power is connect to the original wiring. The engine miss came back again, but stop when i switch off the player. A/C & lights was on at the same time. My voltage is at 13.8 - 14 volt through out the test and i check the charging of the alternator which was fine. U reckon the audio guys who fix my car screw u something?

My mods so far is Blitz airfilter, Blitz 3" downpipe, HKS Drager 3" Exhaust, Pivot Volt stabilizer, Trust Oil Cooler.

I am very keen to use the Ultimate but the price is quite close to a PowerFC. Any good things to say about the Ultimate and was it easy to tune by urself? Hv u dyno yet? I was told to change the ECU first instead of Turbo upgrade since i can maximise the usage of the boost up from the ori turbo atm & still be on the safe limit.

[mad34]

i had to go for the ulitmate as i have an auto. if you have a manual definately get the PFC it is much better. i have had it dynoed i got 198.7 rwkw at 11psi.

[driftmeister]

Mine is a manual and PFC looks like a good buy as a standalone ECU. Most importantly is the tune. I was offered HKS FCon Vpro, quite expensive, cost is inclusived with Japanese guy (Auto Select) flown in to tune on the road. Advantage is the A/F can be set & whatever boost u run, it will be stay exactly as set.

Gonna get the Splitfires as standby unit, EBC and Intercoolers before i up the boost.

Try getting the oil coolers, it's one of the best investment so far for me. No matter how hard you run the engine, it will still be on the first clik on the Oil Temp meter (80-90C).

[mad34]

yeah i have just bought some coilovers. and oil cooler is the next thing on my list. i want to get a hks or trust kit. they seem to be the best

[driftmeister]

Trust & HKS cooler placement is the same which is in front of the radiators, i prefer the Trust for it's looks (Blue) and hose clamps are quality ones.

which coilovers did you buy? I have 3 options to choose & still haven't decided:-

1) Nismo S-Tunes

2) Bilstein shocks with Eibach springs

3) Bilstein BTS kit

So far this are acceptable damper/spring rates for real world roads conditions.

Regards my misfiring, I was advice to upgrade the battery to S60 or S70 size to provide more stable power when i use my audio amp. Currently using S40 size (smallest & compact). Hope this cures the problem for good until i get my Splitfires. Cheers Bro!

[Booya]

Thanks for the info................

il try disconnecting the Stereo, Im not sure its going to help though but well see.

My Battery is a OPtima Dry Cell battery so its not your normal one.

I bought a boost controller but call me stupid, how do i tell the current boost?

Mods

Blitz FMIC & Blow off valve, SAFC II,

[driftmeister]

Hi Booya

Your Optima batt seem to be the premium type so it may not be the problem, mine was NS40, maybe too small & probably will get the NS60. But it's good to just try driving awhile without using unnecessary electrical accessories to test whether ur batt / alternator is not the problem. Today is almost a week and the misfiring has gone almost completely. Slight misfire (higher RPM only) happen yesterday nite, probably the cool weather. Tonight i tried turning the player with just the rear standard speakers (applifier disconneted with fuse out). So far is ok & the car pull strongly.

Regards Boost, don't u have the center 3 meter gauges? Boost os on the closest right to you. Normally stardard boost is around 0.6-0.7 bar.

If you have boost controller, it should show on the screen, which type did you get?

[Booya]

Well tried the battery option last night removing all stereo components and thats definately not whats causing it.

Ill have to try to get to ther dam coil packs this weekend and pull out the sparkies and regap them.

Otherwise ill take it to a mechanice to have a look at. I checked the coil packs last night just by peaking under the rocker cover but i couldnt see any sparks.

It even started iddling funny when i first started the car COLD!