Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a R33 gts-t that's a bit modified and was looking a t getting a new clutch for it. My car is putting out 320hp at the wheels at 1.2bar boost at the moment and needs tuning so I want something that can handle at least 600hp@flywheel.

It currently has an hks triple plate solid centre clutch which works great and never slips but the problem is that it makes the car hard to drive.... i either have to give it some revs and take off spinning the wheels a bit or ease it out very very slowly over about 5seconds. I was just wanting to know if anyone has a good clutch in their car that can handle this power without being too difficult to use that they can recommend. At the moment I am thinking about OS Giken or Ogura Racing Clutch Twin Plate Sprung Centre Clutches.I don't want to drag it with this clutch or do like 6000rpm+ launches just be able to still rev it out without the clutch slipping.

Also does anyone in my area have a clutch of this type... i m in noosa on sunshine coast, qld.

Thanks for any help

Jamie:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10910-r33-gts-t-clutches-which-are-good/
Share on other sites

What does a clutch cost?

I guess my car will be going close to 200rwkw eventually and i'd like to put aside enough $$ incase i start having problems with the standard item.

Anyone have suggestions for a car that will be aiming for low 13/high 12s on the odd occasion while also being very driveable to work each day?

Mark

Hi guys, REV210 is right choose one for the horsepower you want, plus I have a simple rule;

for 2wd drive a twin plate is plenty, regardless of how you use it

for 4wd drive a twin plate is plenty for the street

for a 4wd street/drag car, a 3 plate is the go

BTW we use OS Giken as they have a nice range to suite the above.

Hope that helps

Is the following item (From $495 exchange) combined with a lightened flywheel worth worrying about if i'm going to keep below 250rwkw? or should I/can I just get a lightened flywheel with the standard clutch?

"UAS Modified sports clutch with 40% increased clamping pressure and 6 finger cinted bronze Cerametalic button clutch plate. Grips well lasts a long time and not savage on take up. Anti Burst Casting (Nodular Iron) pressure plate. We can rebuild and improve clutches for any car.

Supplied with new thrust bearing. Exchange for 300zx ,R33 GTS, R32 GTS-T ,Silvia, 180SX MR2, Supra."

Mark

Has anyone used or have an ogura racing clutch?? I have heard they are good but everyone seems to go wit os giken... just wonderin' if dis is cos os is betta or easier to get?

Also anyone able to tell me how much an os twin plate sprung centre clutch wit flywheel is gonna cost??? I have seen one for $3300AU. I'm thinkin that this is a bit xpensive howeva:confused:

ThanX

:werd: :Pimp:

Originally posted by Merli

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=11024

Near new NISMO Triple Plate Clutch for sale - $2500.

Sorry merli but i have a triple plate hks that is pretty much brand new. It is just dat it is a biatch to use. dis is y i m switchin to a twin. If anyone is after a clutch for dragging or racing though or is really co-ordinated than triple plates are awesome.... can drop it at 8000rpm all day and no slippage!! There u go dood free plug :Pimp:

LaterZ All

:werd:

I'm used to the triple now, but my parents need to be able to drive the car, that's why it has to go...

It's a clutch you can quite easily get used to, but not just hop in the car and drive it...

So r the exedy organic heavy duty singles able to handle 600hp@flywheel? Are they easy to use 'cos I heard that some singles are harder to use then a good twin plate?

:Pimp:ThanX

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...