Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm doing the high end boost tune on my RB20DET tomorrow. The cars running a front mount intercooler, and 460cc injectors, Wolf ECU, and Garrett GT25 BB 400hp turbo. I'm aiming for 18lb for the first top end tune.

I expect i'll be runnign about 18-20 degrees advance at that boost level. I've currently got it soft at 15 degrees and there is no detonation and my AFR is 11.8:1 at full boost.

Does anyone have any ignition maps they might share with me to give me an idea of how far I can take the ignition?

Cheers,

Ian

I'm doing the high end boost tune on my RB20DET tomorrow. The cars running a front mount intercooler, and 460cc injectors, Wolf ECU, and Garrett GT25 BB 400hp turbo. I'm aiming for 18lb for the first top end tune.

I expect i'll be runnign about 18-20 degrees advance at that boost level. I've currently got it soft at 15 degrees and there is no detonation and my AFR is 11.8:1 at full boost.

Does anyone have any ignition maps they might share with me to give me an idea of how far I can take the ignition?

Cheers,

Ian Swinkels

What comp? What cams? What fuel? Have you dechamfered the head? What intake temps?

What comp? What cams? What fuel? Have you dechamfered the head? What intake temps?

Stock compression, stock cams, BP ultimate, stock head, 35-38 degree intake temps. I've also got an 040 pump and am running 38 psi rail pressure, but will probably increase this to 50 to get a little more flow accross the injectors.

Edited by GTST4Newbie

Buddy best way to tune it Is on the dyno

and bump the timing up till it starts Knocking

I wouldnt listen to some of the people around as they think they know what the limits are on every Engine

Just dont over rev it and watch

Oil pressures

Fuel Pressures

Water Temps

And

Take into Consideration

Fuels

intake Temps

People have said to me I am running to much timing Bla bla bla.I have done 290 dyno passes on a Rb25 and have driven it over the last month and a half everyday with 18 psi of boost making anything from 490 to 500 hp at the wheels.

Watch the factors above and go for your life

Hi Ian, was the maps from my car of any use to you?

Afraid not... your Wolf ecu was a plug in and used a custom program for using the factory triggering disc in the cam sensor that doesn't exist in the Wolf V4 plus ecu's. My ecu is a wire in model, and I used an RB25 dual pulse trigger disc.

I intially ran splitfire coils but had problems with them misfiring over 12lb, so i've switched to 3 haltech dual post coils and am running waste spark. I've got an MSD Dis 4 on the way to boost the spark energy and provide me with anti-lag and flat shift also.

I have yet to look at the ignition map from it though, thanks for the reminder!

Cheers,

Ian

Buddy best way to tune it Is on the dyno

and bump the timing up till it starts Knocking

I wouldnt listen to some of the people around as they think they know what the limits are on every Engine

Just dont over rev it and watch

Oil pressures

Fuel Pressures

Water Temps

And

Take into Consideration

Fuels

intake Temps

People have said to me I am running to much timing Bla bla bla.I have done 290 dyno passes on a Rb25 and have driven it over the last month and a half everyday with 18 psi of boost making anything from 490 to 500 hp at the wheels.

Watch the factors above and go for your life

Thanks for the advice... I was going to do most of that anyway. The lack of a knock sensor system is my main problem.

I have to hook up my oil pressure gauge too. Any idea where I plumb that into an RB20 engine? I've tried a search on the forum but the search engine doesn't like me :P

Buy a Knock sensor Guage and Sensor and runing it like a boost Guage Champ

I am not to sure who sells them but they are available

Post up how it goes

Will do! Dyno day is this Sunday, and i'll be street tuning tomorrow night. I guess i'll just have to keep a soft tune till I get a knock sensor system.

Buddy best way to tune it Is on the dyno

and bump the timing up till it starts Knocking

I wouldnt listen to some of the people around as they think they know what the limits are on every Engine

Just dont over rev it and watch

Oil pressures

Fuel Pressures

Water Temps

And

Take into Consideration

Fuels

intake Temps

People have said to me I am running to much timing Bla bla bla.I have done 290 dyno passes on a Rb25 and have driven it over the last month and a half everyday with 18 psi of boost making anything from 490 to 500 hp at the wheels.

Watch the factors above and go for your life

Took 290 dyno runs to tune you MAP based ECU hey???

And to answer you question around 17-18 total timing would have been my thoughts but like it has been said above probably best to listen to it on the dyno with a chassis ear.

Edited by rob82

Didnt take 290 runs

only took 5

the reason why ive done 290 passes is trying different fuels different tunes different boost controllers to see what works etc.I am in reasearch on what will work buddy Unlike you.

I think you should stick to typing rubbish on a keyboard.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...