Jump to content
SAU Community

Updates On The R33

Mr-Toy33

By Mr-Toy33,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted (edited)

Geez I go off for a couple of weeks and already the children are not playing well together.

The reason why a twin plate was decided on was because John expressed to me the need to have his clutch hold 300-350kw at the wheels and he didn't want a button single plate. A single plate organic will not handle 300rwkw so the choice is fairly clear.

Twin plate clutches ALL use button style plates but the paddle style button configuration was chosen for lightweight instead of the heavier full plate. The buttons are also rivetted on instead of sprayed on and the cost to overhaul this particular one is about 1/3 of the cost of the exedy hyper twin.

The Exedy hyper twin puts too much load on the crank plate, wears out the carrier and the pedal is three times heavier. This clutch has the same light feel as a stock SR20 clutch and will hold 1000hp at the wheels. It does not drive anywhere near as harsh as single button clutch.

Yes it does grab hard but you can ride it so it drives a lot easier than the button singles.

If you have never owned or installed a twin plate then please look but keep the uneducated comments to yourself. A lot of time went into the development of this clutch and it is by far the best one on the market. Anyone who owns a car with near 300rwkw will know that a single plate is a waste of time and will understand the choice. If you are one of these people then maybe you should ask John to take you for a drive and I'll guarantee you will be impressed with not only the drivability but also the pedal feel.

Edited by 3lit3 32
  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Bobjones Mentor

Bobjones

Posted
Posted (edited)

Dan thanks for the PROPER explanation regarding choice.

But seeing as I HAVE installed these before and HAVE driven cars with these in them, depending on friction compounds, they can be a bitch.

So I guess the uneducated comments were not addressed to me...lucky....

On a side note how come not a sprung centre plate, these would still provide enough friction and clamping but without the overall harshness and vibration that inherently accompanies an unsprung centre!!! I agree with why the button and not the full face, however, clamping pressure is greater using buttons than full face, so having it being not as heavy I find a little bit hard to swallow, that being said I am happy to be proven wrong. Also the rivets are always better to overhaul...I think they are the bee's knees when it comes to replacing!!!

I can see why multiplate has been the choice here, single plate, either button or otherwise will not hold 300rwkw...well it will but not for long...

Edited by Bobjones
Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

I was wondering if you were gonna come back dan and explain to everyone...

Good on ya...

I had a single plate button in my GTS-X and it could slip quite a bit once you got used to it... Most would jump straight in and stall the car...

Mr-Toy33 Grand Master

Mr-Toy33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Brisbane Tunning in woolloongabba, was done this morning.

The injectors will be upgraded within the next week or so.

Just going to look around for what would be best. Was recommended to go more then 550cc but less then 650cc.

Coilpack will also be replaced as coilpack 4, 5, 6 aren't all that good.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
Brisbane Tunning in woolloongabba, was done this morning.

The injectors will be upgraded within the next week or so.

Just going to look around for what would be best. Was recommended to go more then 550cc but less then 650cc.

Coilpack will also be replaced as coilpack 4, 5, 6 aren't all that good.

550's will do what you need but they will be up around 90% duty I would think. The next step up from them are the 650's but I wouldn't go over that. I've gotta re-check my HKS injector prices and I'll let you know John. There is only 3 Sard's left from my supplier and it won't be for a while until they have more.

Mr-Toy33 Grand Master

Mr-Toy33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Nismo and most other only offer 550 or 740 direct drop in, unless you are going to change the rail...

Good result though so post up a sheet!!!

i`ll post up dyno sheet tomorrow.

i left the sheet here at home when i got back from brisbane tunning.

so i`ll take it into work tomorrow and scan it and then post it up here.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • MBS206
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...