Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did a quick job of it a while back, just to hold it until I had time to fix it completely.

Will be doing it soon. It is fairly easy to DIY, you don't need to match the paint exactly, a it's hidden by the mirrors.

I was just going to sand/buff off any major rust, then use some rust converter on the rest. After it has done it's job, some good primer (at least 2 coats) and overcoat.

Just to stop it happening again I was going to add a couple of coats of Dinotrol. It's a corrosion preventative compound used on aircraft (I am an aircraft technician, so get time expired stuff from work).

That should keep the rust at bay for as long as I have the car.

thanks, is their any mods or places to seal up to prevent the cause of this ? ie, where is the water coming from ? Ive got a pearl white stagea, pretty hard to colour match, but am thinking about doing the bodywork myself.

The rust is basically on the forward top corner of the door, under the wing mirror.

It looks like the foam backing on the wing mirror traps water and eventually causes rust as it slowly rubs away.

The easiest way to stop it is put a layer of something waterproof between the door and the wing mirror. Some sort of sealant would proably do the job.

There will probably be numerous other ways people have come up with, that's just what I'd do.

  • 4 weeks later...

has anybody paid a panel beater to repair/remove the rust?

how much did you pay?

i got quoted $897 to fix it and spray it and blend the front gaurd to match it...that figur also includes respraying one of the door handles

what workshop did you get it done at?

did they blend the gaurd as well as painting the door?

my rust is only on one side and i still got a massive quote

maybe its something about silver paint...it may be harder to match so they need tyo blend the gaurd aswell

interesting... you dont have the quote/invoice that you can post up so i can see what they actually did. do you?

ps if it was a cash job or something like that you can email or pm it to me if you like.

glad to see that it can still be done without touching the gaurds on silver paint...ill be sure to check out the job they did when i see ur car at the upcoming cruise

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
×
×
  • Create New...