Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone.

Well my R32 GTST has had some headlight problems ever since I got it. When i first went to use my high beams after I bought it, the headlight fuse blew leaving me with no headlights at all. I replaced the fuse/s and everything seemed fine (it was dark). I've pretty much avoided any use of the high beams since, which is fine. But the headlights have always seemed very 'dim', as in not lighting up the road much at night. Since then the fuse has blown again just on normal operation of the low-beams. I replaced the fuse but noticed that the fuse (blue colour 15A) has actually melted and warped!! And there seems to be a lot of cr@p all over the fuse holder connection, which I gather may be melted plastic.

Anyone know what would cause this??? Anyone had this problem before???

Ohh and the melting only seems to happen to one headlight fuse, not the other.

Fixxxer :rolleyes:

Edited by Fixxxer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109673-headlight-issues/
Share on other sites

Sounds like a dead short to earth somewhere in that Hi-beam's circuit. Any idea if the car has been smashed on that side? It may have pinched a wire. The latest (for low beam) is probably a matter of time - it was due to happen.

R32 lights are not the brightest at the best of times. I can only suggest a thorough inspection of every component and wire in the circuit(s). Get a small file (nail file ?) into the fuse holder and clean it up.

I can't tell if its ever been hit on that side before. Certainly not since I've had it.

I'll get in there and clean up the fuse connections and see if anything looks dodgy with connections/wires. If I can't see anything and it keeps happening then it'll have to go to an auto elec I suppose....

Thanks for your help.

Fixxxer :P

Wingnam, 15A is what is recommended for the headlights, I would not go higher amperage than this because you are just masking a deeper problem and potentially could do a lot of damage.

Also, a 20A fuse would not help because my fuse is actually melting, when I pull the fuse out it is warped and melted but the actual fuse still seems to be intact.

Fixxxer

Yeah I did a similar trick with my a/c. it kept blowing the fuse, so i put a huge fuse in. Then smoke started coming from under my bonnet and the fuse melted into the fusebox.

Needless to say, I dont recommend putting a larger fuse in. And by the way, my fusebox is fine and my a/c now works perfectly. :D

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...