Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, from the beginning.....

A while ago I started noticing a liquid leaking from underneath the passenger side of my dash. At first it was cold so I assumed it was just some sort of condensation from the aircon as it had been on full for a while.

Then it was a hot liquid.

A few weeks after that, a friend noticed that the carpet in the passenger footwell was soaked, and upon closer inspection, it was a brown slightly greasy liquid that seemed to be coming from around a plastic like box behind the dash.

Then that week, the car overheated, and when it finally got cool enough for me to fill it up again, the radiator was bone dry and whatever was left in the overflow bottle was actually boiling!

I filled it, watched it for the next few days, and put it down as an isolated incident.

Earlier this week, it did it again.

This time I've been checking it before I go to drive the car.

So far I've been putting in about half a litre after every drive. And I started noticing more of the liquid inside of the car and that it looks and smells very similar to that within the radiator.

I have also noticed that instead of the car temp being at about 1/4 on the guage its been sitting at around 1/2 which is where it would normally sit on a very very hot day.

I've talked with some people, and my father suggested it could have something to do with the heater box or the pipes leading to it.

Does anybody have any ideas or any ways I can test out some theories?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109840-radiator-and-overheating-issues/
Share on other sites

two issues.. your heater box as above - and maybe also its so bad its leaking enough pressure to causing the whole car to overheat. A small leak in the cooling system can make a huge difference to its efficiency

2nd possible could be that the thermostat or the like is busted.. causing overheating.. the overheating as a side effect has caused your old and wearing heater core to spring a leak due to a lot of expansion and heat.

Thanks Predator and Merlin

ok, so if I reroute the heater core for now, and monitior the temp, I should be able to find out if its my thermostat thats gone as well?

If so, 2 questions....

I assume the hoses for the heater core are the rubber ones heading into the fire wall that exit the engine on the drivers side. Am I able to just reroute them directly where the exit/enter the engine?

And how hard is it to change the thermostat and where abouts is it located?

ok, so if I reroute the heater core for now, and monitior the temp, I should be able to find out if its my thermostat thats gone as well?

yup, you'll have eliminated the heater core entirely, so you can narrow it down to whether its that or something else. Even if it is something else as well, if its leaking through the cabin, then you'll need to replace it at some point if you want your heater back.

I assume the hoses for the heater core are the rubber ones heading into the fire wall that exit the engine on the drivers side. Am I able to just reroute them directly where the exit/enter the engine?

yeah.. if you get access down there, or rig up a hose and a couple of hose<->hose connectors just where it goes through the firewall. Probably easier 2nd way.

And how hard is it to change the thermostat and where abouts is it located?

on an rb25 the thermostat is a bit easier to change than rb20.. but its located just where the bottom radiator hose goes into the engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...