Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know alot of people have a misfiring problem in their RBXX's but I'm trying to find out if just throwing some brand new spitfire coilpacks in there should solve the problem?

I have checked the packs countless times, wrapped them in tape, cheacking for any signs of burns/cracks and have found nuthing.

The thing that I don't get is that it will happen one time, then another time it will be fine. Usually after being hot for a while is when it occurs in high revs..

Any help would be really appreciated :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109863-spitfire-coilpacks-rb25/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Assuming you've checked everything else like the plugs, the coil pack harness etc then go the splitfires.....I had the exact problem you describe (an on again/off again miss) changed to splitfires and solved the problem.

I wouldn't say there bling either....not that there was a noticable power gain (I didn't run it back to back on a dyno) but they are/were heaps cheaper than replacement stockies from Nissan.

yeah i've had a similar problem in mine for a while. I went and taped up the coilpacks and they looked clean to me aswell cat spew. Then i also replaced the plugs, but i later found out my plugs are too hot running plugs and they are 1.1 gap which is obviously not good.

:)

i'm going to change to the '7' heat range and 0.9 or 0.8mm gap and see if she comes good.

Fingers crossed..

:O

Splitfires are identical to stock.

Locally you can get them around $600 from some of our traders.

They are cheaper than Nissan, and obviously around 10 years newer.

The performance gain will only occur if your current ones are fruited.

If you dont have a problem then they are not worthwhile.

Cheap option could be get a mates one that works, swap one by one till the car mis-fires no more in big RPM... thats the fruited one :turned:

www.perfectrun.com.au have them for under $550 delivered.

I ordered mine through Perfectrun.com - they took 4 working days to arrive in Melb from Japan!

Just on 551 smackers delivered. You might get lucky though when ordering and they might have some in stock in Syd office, in that case you might get them couriered next day?

Cheers.

P.S They solved my misfire problem - I tried the taping up the coils originally.. and found it lasted for about 2 - 3 days! You wont regret the Splitfires!

[sKYWPN]

After under going some misfiring problems with my car lately. THINKING it was the coilpacks. it actually wasn't

this is the story,

Fridaynight PERFECT, running 1.3bar of boost without a beat

Saturday on the way down to Goulburn(wakefield) gave it some boost on the freeway misfiring all the way to redline. :P head down to supercheap at goulburn for silicon spray (before going to the track) still problems.

ON the way to wakefield from goulburn supercheap. the car was good again! hahah werid. anyways.

Car was running fine til around 3pm, damn it was hot that day 32-35degrees track/road temp! then at 3pm car started misfiring on 1.0bar of boost(didn't bother with high boost).

days later, car still misfiring, bought some copper heat range 7 ngk plugs, regap them to 0.8mm

(my old plugs have only down 25000kms they are iridiums-jap around 0.9-1.0mm can't remember)

TESTed the car. 1.0bar of boost it was fine (this is at night)

anything higher then 1.0bar of boost it misfired BUT not as bad just 1 or 2 jerks.

not happy :) thought it was the coil packs ($550 for spitfires from perfectrun)

then went to SAU dyno day.

high boost 1.3bar Misfiring ben backed off <knocking>

low boost 1.0bar misfiring ben backed off <knocking>

boost controller OFF! (10pounds) 180rwkw. not happy.

THEN i thought OMG, what a bad day. insurance for both cars due and need to save up for coilpacks.

BEFORE, taking this move and investing the big $$$ call my tuner he recommended and says HE always runs 0.65mm in most R33 gts25t with high boost. (1.30bar - 18-19pounds)

SO finally resort... regapped them from 0.8mm --> to 0.65mm

then out for testing............

1.0bar........ Smooth.........

1.1bar ...... still good

1.2bar. ..... not missing a beat

1.3bar.. BINGO!.. problem solved!. NO MORE misfiring!... SO HAPPY that it was my $24 copper plugs that solved the problem not coil packs for $550.

but then again thats my car.. different for everyone. doens't hurt to try though.

;)

my 2cents

Ray - The problem you had there is a COIL problem. By shortening the plug gap, you are simply reducing the amount of energy required for the spark to jump the gap. If you buy coils, you can probably regap the plugs to 0.8 or 1mm

exactly what my tuner said..

im running 0.6 since the boost was blowing the spark out at 18 psi...

going the split fires then back to 0.8 for me..

Edited by Craved

im just hoping that the splitfires will cope with 350ish rwkw on the rb30... dont wanna use these then have to upgrade when i can sell these as new :P

just trying to plan ahead..

but even with the miss i was getting, it wasn't audible really, just could notice the drop in power on the dyno..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...