Jump to content
SAU Community

Broken Shaft On Turbo >>> Way To Remove Compressor Wheel?

jezzerrr

By jezzerrr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

jezzerrr Rising Star

jezzerrr

Posted
Posted (edited)

That I bought from someone with the assurance that it was hiflowed, and just needed new seals. For the price I didn't really care whether it was hiflowed or not, basically just wanting to learn more about turbos.

ANYWAY, cutting a long story short, while knocking off the turbine housing, I broke the shaft, which I'm 99% sure is ceramic anyway (given how easily it snapped, it's colouration and the surface finish). Is there even such a thing as a hiflow that only replaces the compressor wheel?

So my question is, how can I remove the compressor wheel? The most obvious option to me is using an easy out tapped into the turbine end of the shaft, but I'm not sure how much the ceramic would let me do that. anyone know of any other possibilities?

cheers

Jeremy

Edited by jezzerrr
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Since the turbines dead making the shaft useless all thats any good is the bearing housing and compressor wheel - if its aluminium . You could break up the remains of the turbine wheel and tack weld a cross piece to the flat bit so that it can be held and the compressor nut removed .

Or you could very carefully grind the nut and shaft away till the compressor can be removed though the burr may be a problem .

Its ages since I looked at a Hitachi with a damaged turbine . If enough of the steel section of the shaft protrudes from the bearing housing you may be able to slot it with a saw and use a large plain blade screwdriver in a vise to hold it still while you undo the nut . Two pairs of hands helps .

jezzerrr Rising Star

jezzerrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I'll have another look, I may also be able to get an easy out into the compressor end of the shaft, and undo the nut that way. if that fails, I'll try the other options.

cheers

Edited by jezzerrr
BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted
I'll have another look, I may also be able to get an easy out into the compressor end of the shaft, and undo the nut that way. if that fails, I'll try the other options.

cheers

Dont know of anybody who hi-flows and retains the ceramic rear wheel. Defeats the purpose.

GCG highflow consists of new cartridge and wheels (obviously) uses existing housings but profiles comp cover to suit larger compressor wheel.

jezzerrr Rising Star

jezzerrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah that's what I thought. may as well replace the biggest achilles heel while you're in there. I'm still not sure about this compressor wheel though... It's got two paint pen marks on it, one blue, one yellow (from memory), and it also has an N and an 8 cast into the wheel, on opposite sides of the wheel at the blade tip end of the wheel. The wheel also has a few chunks of alloy missing at the inlet end, I'm guessing from the balancing process as there are no scores or marks whatsoever to indicate that they went through the turbo. Given the 8 cast into the bearing housing, I'm fairly sure that it's not a hiflow wheel, but I could be wrong. The pen marks are the wierd thing for me.

ebola Proficient

ebola

Posted
Posted
Since the turbines dead making the shaft useless all thats any good is the bearing housing and compressor wheel ...

Sell it to someone whos been picking bits of ceramic out of their cat and cursing their bleed valve?

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted (edited)
Sell it to someone whos been picking bits of ceramic out of their cat and cursing their bleed valve?

You will need the turbo for the upgrade, dont throw it away or anything, they use your housings.

If you dont want it ill buy it.

Edited by Bezerkly
BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted
yeah that's what I thought. may as well replace the biggest achilles heel while you're in there. I'm still not sure about this compressor wheel though... It's got two paint pen marks on it, one blue, one yellow (from memory), and it also has an N and an 8 cast into the wheel, on opposite sides of the wheel at the blade tip end of the wheel. The wheel also has a few chunks of alloy missing at the inlet end, I'm guessing from the balancing process as there are no scores or marks whatsoever to indicate that they went through the turbo. Given the 8 cast into the bearing housing, I'm fairly sure that it's not a hiflow wheel, but I could be wrong. The pen marks are the wierd thing for me.

If its damaged, it will have to be replaced anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...