Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If the cam timing, duration and lift are the same from one stock R33 to the next then so is the right cam gear dial in.

Timing and perhaps fuelling will need re-adjustment to better suit but, ultimately the effects in the combustion process are identical from one skyline to the next if the exhaust camshaft is the same. I can understand the need to check based on having an RB25 NA with the 4degrees of extra duration or an aftermarket cam.

'Seat of the pants' (feeling the G's) is not very accurate. But having a good ol drive around is what counts.

GTS-t Vspec,

The good thing about the exhaust side is that the slight retard on the exhaust valve is helping the turbo out. You get peak power and torque as a result, at least when the turbo comes on boost which is nice and low on a stocker. I expect about 5kw @ motor more power but, also 4-5kw extra through from begining of the full boost rpm.

We will soon find out if the 1/4 results reflect the idea.

its on!

did it just after lunch. 30min job.

Now all I need to do is set the thing up.

At the moment I am driving around with two 'little notches' of retard. I did this as the HKS piece of paper is a little vague. It says every mark = 2 degrees.

However there are 'big marks' and 'little marks' on the adjustment wheel. Not sure if they are reffering to just the big marks or not. Anyone know?

Even the little I have adjusted seems to have sharpened up the midrange, to the detriment of detonation which I can see from the knock sensor is going to visit the moment I hit 5000+rpm. So later on I'll re-adjust the crank timing to suit.

I think it is the big marks are the degree's but I don't want to say for sure, I thought it said on the actual cam gear itself. Don't drive it too hard until it's properly setup. If I do mine I'll get you to fit it:p

See'ya:burnout:

I been driving around and its more than fine dude. In fact, appart from the timing needing a little backing off, it goes better than before, shows more vacume too for some reason.

No the camgear is neat but, un-informative. It probably is the little marks, at least its good if it is cause I have set the gear up right already and don't have to re-do it.

I could be wrong about the vacume thing, I'll check on the way home.

Miko,

The CAS is dead easy. Putting the Cam gear on with the belt lined up is a son of a bitch (elbow grease).

Broken bolt mate? Those brass bolts are very weak so they don't strip the thread in the soft alloy. Never over tighten any bolt like them they will break on you. The CAS will be fine being held in place by two I'm sure. It should be a peice of cake to drill it out of the alloy bracket.

Yep, apparently you just remove the CAS, the cover (as you did) & you can get to it easily. Remove the broken part of the bolt & put in anothery.

I didn't over tighten the little b$^tard - was just starting to tension & then went loose. Removed the socket & viola, broken bloody bolt:rolleyes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
    • Yeah, I guess its pretty easy to get to if this doesn't work. Just wait till next oil change and pull it out. I am going to have to do the oil pan gasket soon and thought I'd just replace it while I was there.  Thanks
    • All that matters is you're safe and you were able to type that post. Hopefully heaps of parts you can recover for the next shell.  
×
×
  • Create New...