Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Max Power about your XR6t I unfortunately work at Adrian Brien Ford, I have seen this happen alot. We had a staff member whos bought a turbo for her husband, it had some clutch problems they wouldn't do it under warranty - this caused a lot of problems around the place as the are so F***ing lazy when it comes to warranty work.(sorry you can probibly tell that I absolutely hate my job and work but this is the truth about warranty work in dealerships they make more money out of the customer than they do Ford)

I hope my warranty works as i had to come home from the cruise early as my clutch is playing up!

Edited by Whiplash
I hate to say it whiplash but the clutch want come under warranty because it is classed as wear and tear I think. I had to replace mine myself $4500 later. :D

wot u put in it a OS geinkin (spelling :S)

and did u do the work your self

i just got Kent brake and clutch to do mine and cost 800or 900 i cant remeber of the top of my head i think 900 for the GTS-4 with a HD xtreme clutch

BOUGHT MY CAR FROM rEDLINE AND I CANT SAY I HAVE HAD ANY PRBS WITH IT.... u DO PAY A LITTLE EXTRA FROM THEM BUT AT ELAST YOU KNOW YOUR GETTING A HALF DECENT CAR (MINE HAD THE AUCTION PAPERS AND STUFF COME ALONG WITH IT.... hAVNT HAD ANY PROBS AT ALL AND WHEN I GOT RAA CHECK THEY FIXED THE STUFF THAT WAS WRONG APART FROM MY REAR SPOILER LIGHT BECAUSE Icbf.

i went into redline a few weeks ago, looking around for my first skyline...however, i've been lurking round for a while checking out prices, and yeah they did seem a little expensive, 2-3k more than other places.

also, you'll be kinda hard pressed to find a GT-R there. the only one i saw was an R32. a lot of 32 and 33 GTS-T's, and most of these were pretty clean.

they're pretty good if you want a supra or 180sx as well, and one thing that i did notice that the brakes on a lot of the cars were very rusty, so that's something you probably should take into consideration when you look to buy...brakes aren't cheap.

and one thing that i did notice that the brakes on a lot of the cars were very rusty, so that's something you probably should take into consideration when you look to buy...brakes aren't cheap.

new brake pads allways go rusty when i got new pads in my car i would get up and over night there was a rust like residue over my rotors

i dont think that is too much to worry about

A good option is interstate purchases, with RTA inspections and such .. They pick up pretty much everything and more in the way of faults. I saved myself quite a few thousand just by going interstate and driving it back (after taping up the front to prevent stone chips). I could've got it transported but how better to check a car for driving faults than driving it back from Sydney?

I went through http://www.japimports.com.au/ and found Brad Host to be a good, honest dealer. Couldnt be happier with my purchase, he even drove it to the airport for me to pick it up :happy:

They sell aftermarket warranties too for a reasonable price, not that I have had a need but I have called the firm querying. They cover almost everything, clutch, diffs, even exhaust :P

Maybe not relavent to the topic, but a possible other option :(

A good option is interstate purchases, with RTA inspections and such .. They pick up pretty much everything and more in the way of faults. I saved myself quite a few thousand just by going interstate and driving it back (after taping up the front to prevent stone chips). I could've got it transported but how better to check a car for driving faults than driving it back from Sydney?

Interesting option, but do different states have different rules regarding compliance and what is and isn't legal?

For example, if I bought a car that was complied in VIC could it be possible that it is infact illegal in SA due to different laws? I am new to all these rules and regulations so please correct me if I am wrong..

Cheers for the link though!

^^^ yes that is spot on the money my opinion if u dont want to go over the pits @ regency is buy local

but it is a very good option too if u dont mind a visit to regency least it doesnt need full compliance i believe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...