Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, here's a pic of the cooler fitted. Basically the bar that goes across the middle has been removed and my front bar (series 1 non m-spec) has been butchered to give maximum flow. I dont think it looks too bad, but up close it does look crap. I'll take some photo's of the car with the front bar fitted up tomorrow morning. First impressions is I feel maybe another 10-20HP at the wheels, the car is certainly pulling much harder than before. I cant hear any pinging (before it was quite loud, marbles rattling around) but it still may be pinging. Next stop will be a dyno and maybe look at my AF ratio's to find out how rich the car is running. Next mod will be the dump+front pipe, wait a few months then SAFC 2 (hopefully the dollar holds out against the yen) then a few more months and the ogura flywheel (as per rev210). Then I'm not sure... its either bigger turbo or full ecu, I'm sure I will need a new fuel pump and regulator before that stage. I also want a 400r front bar for the front now, seeing as I have a fmic to suit. Enjoy pic, I will post more tomorrow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11032-trust-fmic/
Share on other sites

Oh yeah. I'd like to thank AJ, Sumo and Baz @ Speedworks ((2428888) for all their work and help with the kit and car. Although it took a damn long time to get it all sorted, it looks and performs great and their workmanship is 2nd to none. I think I will get some aluminin pipes made up to go into the engine bar from the cooler to turbo and manifold. If anyone is considering a jap cooler I reckon give them a go (they also make coolers too, if you cant stretch the budget that far). :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11032-trust-fmic/#findComment-181447
Share on other sites

Ok, pics of the front bar and cooler. As you can see the middle section of the front bar has been chopped and my number plate moved to the side. Its not bad from the pics, but up close you can see where the plastic was cut and it looks average, but all I am interested in is flow. I'll be heading down to SST tonight between 7-7:30pm to dyno the car if anyone else wants to turn up and have a look your more than welcome. Enjoy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11032-trust-fmic/#findComment-181845
Share on other sites

I have that same cooler (or similar model), sweet.

what did the bar chopping cost or did you so it yourself?

also did you get a quote for a cleaner chop where they cap the ends of the hole etc?

I always think about getting out the hacksaw and chewing into the front bar but so far I've chickened out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11032-trust-fmic/#findComment-181922
Share on other sites

I cant say how much it cost me, but thats what most people would pay. As I said before speedworks do all my work, and I've known ivan & crew for a while. This kit took 2 hrs to fit, I'd like to see an aussie kit being fitted in 2 hrs or less as most of them simply dont bolt into place as easily and as quickly as japanese stuff. I've always been a believer that japanese stuff is much better than aussie stuff (you pay for what you get), plus I'd rather pay the extra now and go over what I might end up needing than pay less now and then find it wont flow as well as it should and have to spend more money down the track. I still havent decided upon how much power I want exactly. If I choose a gt3037 turbo, I'll need a cooler this size to handle it. Anyway, I'm happy with the kit, regardless of how much I paid. Why are japanese exhausts dearer than the aussie made ones? I've heard a jap one and a aussie one side by side and the aussie is far much louder than the japanese, but the flow on the japanese is better. I doubt my car would be faster than someone whose done the same mods but only spent $1500 on a cooler.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11032-trust-fmic/#findComment-182739
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...