Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mate i did buy the Splitfires for the RB20/ series 1 RB25, but was able to swap them accordingly for a Series 2 RB25.

So if that is the case the coilpacks coming off the RB25 won't work :thanks:

But I can always ask what condition the coilpacks are like coming off the RB20......

Ando

Edited by R33Deviat

UPDATE - 28/03/06

After numerous discussions over the engine, it seems it is no ordinary RB25DET :D It seems it is a very legit low KM engine, so 24,000 seems to be accurate! It apparently is a VERY VERY LATE model RB25DET off a Stagea WGN33 with the sump modified for RWD..... :O

A few additions to the add-on list...

1. RB25DET

2. R33 GTST Gearbox

3. FMIC

4. Splitfire Coilpacks

5. 3" Exhaust Turbo back

6. Ceramic Clutch

7. 2 x Recaro's

8. Oil Cooler Kit

9. Profec B II Boost Controller

10. x3 Guages - Oil Temp / Pressure & Water temp

WATCH THIS SPACE FOR THE NEXT UPDATE! :(

Ando

UPDATE - 28/03/06

After numerous discussions over the engine, it seems it is no ordinary RB25DET :huh: It seems it is a very legit low KM engine, so 24,000 seems to be accurate! It apparently is a VERY VERY LATE model RB25DET off a Stagea WGN33 with the sump modified for RWD..... :)

Stageas came in RWD RB25 as well (just no one in australia seems to like or know about em), as did C34 Laurels, Glorias and Cedrics. Its pretty strange to modify an AWD RB25DET to a RWD when you can just get a RWD one cheaper and more easily.

Also the late late model RB engines are NEO engines, so make sure you get the right parts for it (eg: top feed injectors instead of sidefeed like regular RB25DETs).

Shan,

Mate it has me lost as to the exact nature of it.... I will see if I can get a piccy of it up for you guys to ponder over

Here you go!

post-263-1143582900.jpg post-263-1143582920.jpg

:):huh::)

Ando

Edited by R33Deviat

Thanks heaps Nick!!!!

Yeah she is coming along nicely!! :) Just gotta feel sorry for Nath having to sort thru the wiring loom to match up to the RB25! ( See last 2 photos )

Doesn't a wiring loom hanging off the exhaust add about 2000+ rwkw?? :D

Ando

  • 1 month later...

*UPDATE 08/05/06*

Pit stopped @ the workshop on the weekend to pick up the RB20 / Gearbox and see my baby :worship:

Should be done in a few weeks time WOOT :spank:

It is 100% confirmed, engine is WGN34 Stagea RWD.

Just awaiting a couple of things such as, driveshaft modified for the 33 gearbox, power steering pump etc. Engine should be getting turned over in the next couple of days!

As for price (Basketcase) approx $4000 for engine (22K Km's), gearbox, coilpacks, full loom, AFM, ECU, delivered. Wasn't fussed paying a little extra considering the very low legit km's.

Ando

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...