Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

forgot to mention I have 1994 R33 GTS4,

One thing I noticed is once the 4WD and ABS led flashes the SLIP led doesnt work anymore, normally it flashes when the rear wheels loos control or slips. which means it has switched back to RWD from 4WD.mmmmmmm, No I dont know why ABS led allways cometogether with 4WD??????

Maybe a electrical problem.................. :):):mad:

Sounds like you rear ABS sensor/s are faulty or damaged.

Both ABS and ATTESSA systems use the ABS sensors to determine slip/skiding/etc.

Sounds like you rear ABS sensor/s are faulty or damaged.

Both ABS and ATTESSA systems use the ABS sensors to determine slip/skiding/etc.

I took my car to a workshop, which they hook it up to a handheld computer thingy, it came up saying "G sensor error"

By the way where is the ABS sensor can be found on ? im sure all 4 wheels got them but no idea what it looks like or where it is exactly located in?

any help...................a pictur maybe...

Cheers

The G sensor is a small metal box in the centre console rear of the gearshift. You will see it as soon as you take the console off.

It has a small window on the front which apparently goes red when the sensor is busted - don't forget your problem could be the wiring between the sensor and the computer as well

The ABS sensors are little toothed wheels - front ones are on the hubs and rear ones are next to the diff. There is a small sensor attached to the diff or hub that reads how many teeth go by to calculate wheel speed.

The ABS sensors are little toothed wheels - front ones are on the hubs and rear ones are next to the diff. There is a small sensor attached to the diff or hub that reads how many teeth go by to calculate wheel speed.

Cheers, Thanks mate. bythe way i found more infor regarding this issue on another web site as well.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/46982-ca...my-gtr33-2.html

FYI----(The following has been copied from above mentioned site)

If you disconnected the battery you may of just deleted all the fault codes from the ECU,s that have recorded the faults.

Over the last few years we have come to notice what causes these faults and mostly are as follows in order which we have noticed.

A 33 has Electric Hicas so the Power steering fluid fix will not work ( the 32 is the only car that has hyraulic Hicas )

Normally if the 4wd lights comes on by itself it will be a low fluid level.

If the 4wd lights and ABS lights come on it will be throttle switch or ABS sensor.

If the 4wd/ABS/HICAS lights come on normally the rear wiper pipe broken and it has flooded the ECU,s in the boot.

Cheers

Chinthana

  • 3 weeks later...

what exactly is the throttle switch?

having just messed around with the throttle getting wiring through the fire wall my 4wd + ABS lights have come on. Guessing its related.

Cheers, Thanks mate. bythe way i found more infor regarding this issue on another web site as well.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/46982-ca...my-gtr33-2.html

FYI----(The following has been copied from above mentioned site)

If you disconnected the battery you may of just deleted all the fault codes from the ECU,s that have recorded the faults.

Over the last few years we have come to notice what causes these faults and mostly are as follows in order which we have noticed.

A 33 has Electric Hicas so the Power steering fluid fix will not work ( the 32 is the only car that has hyraulic Hicas )

Normally if the 4wd lights comes on by itself it will be a low fluid level.

If the 4wd lights and ABS lights come on it will be throttle switch or ABS sensor.

If the 4wd/ABS/HICAS lights come on normally the rear wiper pipe broken and it has flooded the ECU,s in the boot.

Cheers

Chinthana

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...