Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just after some opinions, whats better for everyday street driving?

Xdrilled or slotted? not a big difference in price and cosmetically I prefer the look of drilled rotors like the porsche ones but heard of warping? probably only happens after hard race/drift driving which Im not going to be doing in a hurry but any other pros/cons for either?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110527-r33-dba-rotors/
Share on other sites

Even the Porsche ones crack so thats why I went with DBA Slotted and when I came onto the freeway recently slightly faster than I should have and saw what I thought was an unmarked police car pulling someone up about two hundred meters up the road they proved their worth.

Never has my GTS4 stopped so surely and swiftly ever before it nearly turned me on more than the acceleration at the drags;-)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110527-r33-dba-rotors/#findComment-2036333
Share on other sites

Just after some opinions, whats better for everyday street driving?

Xdrilled or slotted?

Neither. Plane jane rotors would be the best.

Even putting the slots into rotors introduces a weak point (as I found out the hard way), and since you're not braking hard enough to see the performance gain you're paying for something you just won't use.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110527-r33-dba-rotors/#findComment-2039866
Share on other sites

i can say this...

the kangaroo paw from DBA work great.

i bought a set of DBA4000 slotted rotors..

and was supplied the wrong ones (GTR ones) which were too thick and wrong offset.. only found this out after installing them. so it marked them and they wouldn't take them back after supplying the wrong ones..

any way..

machined the slots off them to get them to fit, and they still work awesome..

almost no fade after a full 20 minute session at wake field runnin 1m 15s laps.

where as the std ones would produce fade in that time.

so yeah, slotted if you can afford it (noting that it should wear your pads out quicker)

or std replacements using the kangaroo paw design for cooling..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110527-r33-dba-rotors/#findComment-2040507
Share on other sites

I'm not happy with the design of DBA slotted so recommend the RDA items.

The original DBA slots went short of the circumference and result in a major wearing of the outer 10mm of circumference (as has happened on Roy's car) so they put a small reverse slot overlapping the long slot. Helps a little but still wears fast in that region as noted on some tracked GTR's. I won't bore you all with the long version. Also the Kanga paw is not aerodynamically or structurally sound in my professional opinion given the reports of failures and my analysis of the design. Perhaps it all stems from poor metallurgy.

Ultimately the choice is yours but I think DBA market share is more advertising and novelty than actual product worth and recommend the RDA slotted or the new slotted and dimpled which cost a bit more. I have the RDA discs on my track GTSt and my GTR33 came with DBA slotted which I am watching closely. I don't track the GTR but still have cause to enjoy it. It still needs braided lines, decent pads and a master stopper to be directly comparable to the GTSt but the discs are the maor cause of concern in their wear characteristics. Pads will make the difference as well with racebrakes.com.au RB74 my choice for road/sprints. there are better track pads though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110527-r33-dba-rotors/#findComment-2040883
Share on other sites

i have dba xdrilled rotors at the front (ordered 4000s but got these instead) and have had no problems... if you do the odd track day and mainly do street driving they are great... oh yeah i think pad choice is just as important (using ferodo ds3000)...

post-2153-1143071189.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110527-r33-dba-rotors/#findComment-2041139
Share on other sites

x drilled arent just for looks you know, they do serve a purpose.

the discs cool down alot faster, so less chances of uber brake fade

Well drilling removes vital mass from the disc, weaking its structure and reducing its heat sinking capabilities. Drilling is fine for the street, but you wont see em on any track car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110527-r33-dba-rotors/#findComment-2043370
Share on other sites

i'll agree with the RB74 pads, they are really good on the street and track.

always run these.

do RDA have a similar product to the DBA5000 series ?

ally hat for heat transfer.. only down side is trying to get them machined requires a proper mill to get them flat as there is nothing to bolt em down with.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110527-r33-dba-rotors/#findComment-2043425
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...