Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

NP mate. it does not require welding but it will require your machineist to machine down the crank and fit it correctly. its not a easy job and you have to have the crank out of the engine to do the task.

what was the other question? did you read through this thread ? it has everything you need.

always balance everything that goes up and down and round and round. Might as clean up the crank too while there, any dags and casting marks clean it up and get it slippery smooth.

In regards to the RB25 , why is the front feed blocked off and the rear feed restricted but with the other engines its the rear feed that gets blocked off and the front feed get's the restrictor as per sydneykids table ??

we dont know where sydney kid comes up with his ideas but they have been proven to work time after time after time so its a good idea not to ask questions how he comes up with it...

I think it may be because the rb25 has hydro lifters and its required to have it setup that way to run them properly where the gtr has solids which does not need the same kind of oil configuration.

Mine is done as per Sydney kids instructions and its been running for 2 years and 363rwkw.

There are many others whos are running well too. I dont know why people have to question it all the time.

well i certainly do not know thats why i am asking these question's b4 i put the motor together .. i want to be 100% sure all is correct ..
in saying that guilt-toy if you install the non vct 25 head you block of the rear and feed the front but with the 25 vct head its opposite and both have hydraulic lifters..

thats is correct??

I run the non-vct RB25 head.

I blocked off the rear restrictor as the Rb26's are and run a 1.5mm restrictor up font.

Works fine no ticks, pops etc. Went from shit loads of oil everywhere over 5500rpm+ to a bone dry catch can. Still plenty of oil floating around in the cam covers. Prior on idle oil was puddled up to the base of the cam so you couldn't see the lifter. Now u can.

As a few have experienced; if you experience hydraulic lifter tick once the motor is warm its a tell tale sign the motors on its last legs. Recently happened to a mate of mine running an rb30det.

what went on your mates engine when it went ? i get lifter tick for about 5 seconds when i start the engine on cold startup only...

just wondering what went on your mates engine

I run the non-vct RB25 head.

I blocked off the rear restrictor as the Rb26's are and run a 1.5mm restrictor up font.

Works fine no ticks, pops etc. Went from shit loads of oil everywhere over 5500rpm+ to a bone dry catch can. Still plenty of oil floating around in the cam covers. Prior on idle oil was puddled up to the base of the cam so you couldn't see the lifter. Now u can.

As a few have experienced; if you experience hydraulic lifter tick once the motor is warm its a tell tale sign the motors on its last legs. Recently happened to a mate of mine running an rb30det.

what went on your mates engine when it went ? i get lifter tick for about 5 seconds when i start the engine on cold startup only...

just wondering what went on your mates engine

Lifter tick when the oil was warm and poor oil pressure no bottom end knocks or noises. The lifters were silent when cold.

Mine is fairly decent on cold start up, I only get an occasional tick. I can't remember the last time it ticked but I haven't been driving the car during the week for a while.

The RB20 was the same. Occasional tick.

Yeah well i checked my oil change sticker and it has been 6000km's since a oil change!! so thats why they would be ticking.. oil is getting a little old but its 300v chrono which is known to last longer then normal fully synthetic oil.

will change it in the next week or 2 :) ooooopppss

Lifter tick when the oil was warm and poor oil pressure no bottom end knocks or noises. The lifters were silent when cold.

Mine is fairly decent on cold start up, I only get an occasional tick. I can't remember the last time it ticked but I haven't been driving the car during the week for a while.

The RB20 was the same. Occasional tick.

thats a pretty over the top solution Beyond Horizon, you will never fit the standard piping back on if you go a fitting like that. A simple 90o angle with 1/2 hose barbs on one side and 3/8 BSP thread on the other can be tapped into the head just to the right of the fitting in that pic - much easier, smaller and about $3 for the fitting

thats a pretty over the top solution Beyond Horizon, you will never fit the standard piping back on if you go a fitting like that. A simple 90o angle with 1/2 hose barbs on one side and 3/8 BSP thread on the other can be tapped into the head just to the right of the fitting in that pic - much easier, smaller and about $3 for the fitting

But will it flow as well, bearing in mind we are talking gravity feed here?

thats a pretty over the top solution Beyond Horizon, you will never fit the standard piping back on if you go a fitting like that. A simple 90o angle with 1/2 hose barbs on one side and 3/8 BSP thread on the other can be tapped into the head just to the right of the fitting in that pic - much easier, smaller and about $3 for the fitting

Do you know where i can find some pictures of this modification you're talking about or do you have some ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...