Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ppl

I have a rb20 in a vs commodore just wonding a u thing of it

there are alot of ppl dong turbo conversions to the commo's now. i suppose its a different idea, but if it were me, id most likely just put my $ towards a turbo car, instead of puting all the money into a conversion like that. but each to there own.

there are alot of ppl dong turbo conversions to the commo's now. i suppose its a different idea, but if it were me, id most likely just put my $ towards a turbo car, instead of puting all the money into a conversion like that. but each to there own.

Yer i know but i wanted something different

Hmmm, I would have thought that having such a low capacity engine would be a bad idea in anything other than an early model Commdore due to the lack of torque. RB25 would be a better solution, but personally I would have gone the 1JZ or 2JZ. 1JZ halfcuts are still pretty cheap too I believe.

Good on you for being different though.

Edited by Thunderbolt

The ecotec V6 in the VS model produced 147kw at the fly

The Silver top Rb20det is 164kw at the fly....

However the torque would be better in the V6 as it had a storter stroke and larger bore....

Either way you can buy a million parts to make an rb20 better but you cannot just pick up a catalogue for a buick V6....

Nice job.... I have wired a VB with an rb26 and a Vk with an rb25 in the past few years and it was not easy at all... But plenty on fun...

i know a guy who has twin turboed his VN V6 executive motor, has GTR turbo's on it running a wolf computer. but he's lost his licence for like 2 years so its been of the road. also there is another guy getting round up here with a 1jz conversion in a vn commo, goes fairly well.

mate jus swapped his riced out lancer for a twin turboed vr commo ute.runs 300zx turbos and haltech and alledged internals.

supposed to have 340hp at the treads but runs like a dog atm. with a tune and a bit of sorting it may be alright. would have thought the 300zx turbos (t25??) would have been a bit small for a 3.8L. it makes 10psi at like 2000rpm.

that would be a weapon of a bimmer overev1

Edited by rb20inside
mate jus swapped his riced out lancer for a twin turboed vr commo ute.runs 300zx turbos and haltech and alledged internals.

supposed to have 340hp at the treads but runs like a dog atm. with a tune and a bit of sorting it may be alright. would have thought the 300zx turbos (t25??) would have been a bit small for a 3.8L. it makes 10psi at like 2000rpm.

that would be a weapon of a bimmer overev1

well gtr turbo's are only T28's, like the ones on my mates, its alot of stuffing round in the end, i told my mate with the amount of money hes spent on his vn he coulda had a 12 sec car easy, and done a RB26 conversion to it, he's kicking him self about it now, but thats what u get for trying to flog a dead horse i guess.

Edited by 85URK

There are buick V6s that came stock turbo... Not here but in the states. They run some insane times considering the lard arse cars they are in. I really dont understand why more people dont do them over here. Commos make awesome sleepers tho.

A VN-VS commo weighs about the same as a cefiro or skyline sedan anyway, I dont see the problem.

Out of interest tho, whats the fuel economy like now? Better or worse.

There are buick V6s that came stock turbo... Not here but in the states. They run some insane times considering the lard arse cars they are in. I really dont understand why more people dont do them over here. Commos make awesome sleepers tho.

A VN-VS commo weighs about the same as a cefiro or skyline sedan anyway, I dont see the problem.

Out of interest tho, whats the fuel economy like now? Better or worse.

Not to sure yet mate i do not have a licence to drive it but i might lend it to a mate and i will let u know what it is like on fuel

And thanks for the feed back

cheers

  • 2 weeks later...
the vs is off the road again f**ked a gear box :laugh:

Is this car regoed? or mod plated? i thought you couldnt do a engine swap if the motor is older than the car????

Edited by shnaped_second
Is this car regoed? or mod plated? i thought you couldnt do a engine swap if the motor is older than the car????

You can swap just about anything within reason...

I have seen an rb26dett in a VY Commodore... So thats in the same boat....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
×
×
  • Create New...