Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all !

Am going to be ordered an LSD in April and dont want to get the wrong one ! :)

Car was originally non turbo (converted in japan) and has 3x2 bolt drive shafts.

Am I right to assume that it is a Non turbo Cefiro LSD. Kaaz make a freaking diff for everything so I have to make sure it is the right one.

Thanks.

Edited by konect
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110937-help-with-diff-purchase/
Share on other sites

i was reassured by henry at rms that if it was the wrong one then he would change it...

go by the plate in the car? or do nissan have the chassis number on file?

i dunno man i just had a guess and luckily got it right - manual turbo with abs, 1990, and it had 5bolt shafts... :S

good luck

Is it an R180 or R200? Was it converted from RB20E or RB20DE? Reason I ask is that mine was originally RB20E and came with a R180 open diff (3x2 bolts). Not much point in getting an lsd centre for that. if so i'd upgrade to an R200 with the thicker drive shafts. if it was a DE then its probably an R200.

I think you can tell by looking at where the flange thing bolts into the diff, I think the R180 is 5 bolt and the R200 is 6 bolts. (dont quote me on that) but also check ns.com.

I have the 180 converted to ATS lsd, and havent had any prob with the drive shafts, from what I know if you change it to the 200 then your drive shfts wont mat up to your hub as it requires larger hole for the spines.

double check though but I think thats right.

If your drive shaft breaks then just replace it. Cause really if your replacing the whole diff then its really only the casing left, your not going to break that.

I think you can tell by looking at where the flange thing bolts into the diff, I think the R180 is 5 bolt and the R200 is 6 bolts. (dont quote me on that) but also check ns.com.

I have the 180 converted to ATS lsd, and havent had any prob with the drive shafts, from what I know if you change it to the 200 then your drive shfts wont mat up to your hub as it requires larger hole for the spines.

double check though but I think thats right.

If your drive shaft breaks then just replace it. Cause really if your replacing the whole diff then its really only the casing left, your not going to break that.

Hubs and splines are the same.

Yeah dude I lied, R200 diff comes in both bolt formats, apparently the R200 has fins on the backing plate, one way to tell. What I did find when I bought a second hand rear hub from a 300zx was that the turbo hub has a thicker diameter driveshaft and non turbo smaller driveshaft so Was thinking if you upgrade or whatever, make sure that it is has the same driveshaft size.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's not a transistor --- it's marked ZD1 which makes it a zener diode. As to what the breakdown voltage is, not enough there to divine.
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
×
×
  • Create New...