Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I'm looking at an R34 GTT for sale and am close to purchase.

Here is a photo of the exhaust.

post-518-1143373867.jpgpost-518-1143374680.jpg

This is a Nizmo factory option, right? I've been on Prestiges list long enough to learn most of the factory options and am pretty sure it is. It also has that interior 'Sports / Silent' switch in the cabin under the steering wheel to the right.

My current R33 has a custom 3" from turbo to cat then a HKS 3.5" cat back + an Apexi air pod and has 160rwkw. This R34 didn't seem to go as hard (it just has this exhaust, no pod or other power mods), but maybe cause it was newer and smoother? Dunno. Thought it was strange though cause the R34 supposed to have a few extra KW's over an R33. Anyway, my questions:

- Can anyone tell what size this exhaust is? 2.5"? 3"?

- Does anyone know anything more about this spec of exhaust?

- The dump/front pipe is still the standard (restrictive one) right?

- Is it worth replacing with a 3 or 3.5" exhaust?

- Is there a big power difference between 'silent' and 'sports'?

- Dummy question here - will an R33 cat back system fit an R34?

Edited by McCracken
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111174-r34-gtt-exhaust-questions/
Share on other sites

Yeah, the silent/sports thing is a butterfly flap in the read muffler.

It's really only for sound and that's it.

Also, it tends to seize all the time because of the heat of the exhaust.

You will most likely replace it with a 3" turbo back anyway.

Then you can use the button for NAWS!

I'll have to measure it.

I guess what I'm trying to figure out is am I getting bang for my buck spending the $850 - $1,100 on replacing this exhaust with a new cat back system.

There is no doubt I'll be getting a front/dump pipe regardless.

I mean, if this is 3" but it's not 'as optimal as it could be', surely spending a grand on the car for just a small improvement isn't worth it.

If it's only 2.5" then that's another story I guess. I posted some pics in the original post, were these deleted by mods? I shrunk them and everything!

I'll have to measure it.

I guess what I'm trying to figure out is am I getting bang for my buck spending the $850 - $1,100 on replacing this exhaust with a new cat back system.

There is no doubt I'll be getting a front/dump pipe regardless.

I mean, if this is 3" but it's not 'as optimal as it could be', surely spending a grand on the car for just a small improvement isn't worth it.

If it's only 2.5" then that's another story I guess. I posted some pics in the original post, were these deleted by mods? I shrunk them and everything!

It is only 2.5" so get a full 3" system on there and forget what's there now.

my r34 im buying has this exhaust, im going to keep the flap, but upgrade to aftermarket 3.5" within 1st 3 weeks of owning the car hopefully.

but this 34 nizmo exhaust is alot better than the standard gtt exhaust :)

Edited by illusiVe
my r34 im buying has this exhaust, im going to keep the flap, but upgrade to aftermarket 3.5" within 1st 3 weeks of owning the car hopefully.

but this 34 nizmo exhaust is alot better than the standard gtt exhaust :D

Good to know its much better - I would have thought so. I added several kw just by doing a rear muffler change on a 200sx once.

Does anyone know if it's possible to weld a custom 3" exhaust up to this Nizmo rear muffler? Or won't this work as this muffler has a 2.5" inlet? It looks like its a great muffler and I don't want to have to throw it away, that's all.

its the whole thing of having the quiet/loud option.. thats the only reason why i wouldnt want to get rid of it.

i plan on making the flap compatible with my new 3.5" exhaust.

also if u get xforce, i think it doesnt come with a dump pipe, only front pipe etc..

could be wrong :D.. if im right, atleast u could make preperations to spend on dump pipe.

I had the same problem.

Got rid of the muffler and upgraded exhaust to 3" one since the muffler is only 2.5". Great power improvement but was a bit loud for me,

So I put on the old muffler with my 3" system, shame though, I need a bit of 2.5" piping to connect it to the 3" resonator and the rest of the piping.

Found it to be very restrictive! that nismo muffler is very restrictive, even though its Nismo, I see it more as a factory upgrade rather than a performance aftermarket part.

Save your money for a proper muffler and system (3 or 3.5") and keep this nismo muffler on the side just in case you need to go back to stock for whatever reason (defects).

Thats what I am doing, trying to get a proper 3" muffler now because with the big exhaust, the full exhaust was getting me about 11psi boost. With ONLY the nismo muffler put back on (i left the 3" dump pipes etc etc), boost decreased to about 8or 9 psi. So I see this exhaust as a major restriction.

If you want the quiet loud option, get an ECV.

With this muffler, quiet is quiet, loud is quiet, you cant really tell the difference.

Thanks mate, this is exactly the information I was after. Looks like that whole system is about to become a garage decoration if I get that car.

Guess I’ll just have to budget in about $1800 for a good full system when I’m comparing other vehilces. That damn exhaust sure does add up when you add dump + front + cat + cat back + fitting. Doh.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...