Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Having my RB26DETT rebuild by a company that doesnt really know those kind of engine. They have the Bible, and they are following the book. They have really good mechanic, so I trust them no to do anything stupid.

But is there anything that I should tell them to not forget or to lookout for?

I heard something about the torque plate warping? I dont have any info on that. Does anyone know what that is?

Is there anything I should know to prevent any kind of surprise?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111420-things-to-know-when-rebuilding-rb26/
Share on other sites

Having my RB26DETT rebuild by a company that doesnt really know those kind of engine. They have the Bible, and they are following the book. They have really good mechanic, so I trust them no to do anything stupid.

But is there anything that I should tell them to not forget or to lookout for?

I heard something about the torque plate warping? I dont have any info on that. Does anyone know what that is?

Is there anything I should know to prevent any kind of surprise?

You should have taken it to someone that has built them before .

What kind of built are you doing ? You normaly rebore and hone the block with a torque plate .

Are rbs really that different to any other motor? surely a bottom end is a bottom end?

Of course they are not Duncan but if you take to someone that does them all the time, they know what to look for and they can do it fairly quickly . At the end it will be cheaper and better because they are geared up for it .

Oil control can be a problem, but you havnt specified very much about the build. Is it a standard part rebuild? How much power are you after? What is the engine being built for? Will it see track/drag/drift or street?

Either way a good start is here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=110680

Im rebuilding the bottom end:

.50mm oversized pistons,

Main bearings,

Rod bearings,

N1 Oil pump,

1.2 mm HG Nismo,

I'm just looking to rebuild it to standard specs.

The machine shop that im dealing with never touched a RB motor cause its not usual to see a rb here in canada but they do alot of dragsters and kinda like nascar motors. They probably know what there doing. But I wanted to know if there were anything (tips) for rebuilding the rb26?

Thanks alot for the info.

depending on what pistons you are using

just make it clear that they get the piston/bore clerance correct

probably the most critical part of the build.

and yes torque plate honing is recomended(dummy head bolted to the block)

If it is a standard rebuild to basically stock specifications, the only requirement is good workmanship and care. Nothing particularly different or difficult to any other engine.

If a lot of non standard parts are being used, it is a completely different situation. Many genuine racing parts are simply not suitable for a long life road engine. Special engines require special care and expert knowledge in selecting and fitting non standard parts.

With the upgrade of oil pump to N1 i would install a tomei oil gallery block restrictor , they are cheap and very easy to install and just help control oil flow to the head.

If you haven't bought your head gasket kit just buy tomei metal head gasket kit as they have one in the kit or there like 500 yen on there own

On another note are you doing any work to the head if so the exhaust valve clearances might catch you guy out as they run very loose clearance because of the special valves (they feel f..ked even when there fine)

pete

With the upgrade of oil pump to N1 i would install a tomei oil gallery block restrictor , they are cheap and very easy to install and just help control oil flow to the head.

If you haven't bought your head gasket kit just buy tomei metal head gasket kit as they have one in the kit or there like 500 yen on there own

On another note are you doing any work to the head if so the exhaust valve clearances might catch you guy out as they run very loose clearance because of the special valves (they feel f..ked even when there fine)

pete

I will install the tomei oil restrictor, and I have the nismo gasket kit with the 1.2mm steel HG.

Thanks for the info on the valve clearances, we were kinda stuck on that, trying to figure why it was so loose.

Is there any other information about rebuilding rb26 that you know of?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...