Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am replaceing my standard rotors with slotted ones.

Have removed the calipers and pads but cannot remove rotors.

Am I forgetting something?

I used a bit of WD-40 to loosen them, thinking they are just stubborn. Am going to try again tonight but want to be sure I am not missing removing something. I even tried a bolt into the two holes to get it pull away from the hub but that didn't help didn't feel good got very tight but did not loosen rotor.

Advice needed...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111525-trouble-removing-rotors/
Share on other sites

I am replaceing my standard rotors with slotted ones.

Have removed the calipers and pads but cannot remove rotors.

Am I forgetting something?

I used a bit of WD-40 to loosen them, thinking they are just stubborn. Am going to try again tonight but want to be sure I am not missing removing something. I even tried a bolt into the two holes to get it pull away from the hub but that didn't help didn't feel good got very tight but did not loosen rotor.

Advice needed...

What car? R32? If so just use the threaded holes to slowly work the rotor off. Might help to tap the rotor (near stud holes) with a mallet to help work them off. Just do it slowly, and be patient. They will come eventually, norlmally have not been off for a long time.

What car? R32? If so just use the threaded holes to slowly work the rotor off. Might help to tap the rotor (near stud holes) with a mallet to help work them off. Just do it slowly, and be patient. They will come eventually, norlmally have not been off for a long time.

Its an R33 GTST S2, I have used holes to work bolts into they got very tight was waiting for thread to rip out, tried mallet and WD-40 still no joy....

Its an R33 GTST S2, I have used holes to work bolts into they got very tight was waiting for thread to rip out, tried mallet and WD-40 still no joy....

Mine were very tight too. just keep pressure on the bolts screwing the rotor out, tap away with the mallet. Pressure and shock impacts should get them off. Just dont be too savage. At the end of the day you said you were replacing them anyway.

i did this exact same thing 8 months ago on my r33 s2 gts-t.

Basically the easiest way i found after swearing for agood 2 hours why the basterds wouldnt come off was the following

Put the screws into the holes, instead of pulling like i did just keep screwing them in till they get really firm as they will act as leverage to push the rotor away from the back. Get a rubber mallet and give it a whack (not to hard obviously) working around the corners. It should pop off if it doesnt keep trying to turn the bolts as they are the key when they have managed to loosen the rotor off a little bit they will come off easy as :teehee:

Cheers Leigh

  • 7 months later...

hey ppls

im having the same issues with the rear discs.. the barstard wont come off..

ive taken the calipers off.. and besides that i havnt undone any other bolts if im supposed to ?? ive been hitting it / the 5 bolts for an hour.. nothing seems to be happening.. any good ideas :( ??

also theres 2 little holes on the discs.. theres like a metal screw thing inside them but u cant do anything to it.

???

hey ppls

im having the same issues with the rear discs.. the barstard wont come off..

ive taken the calipers off.. and besides that i havnt undone any other bolts if im supposed to ?? ive been hitting it / the 5 bolts for an hour.. nothing seems to be happening.. any good ideas :( ??

also theres 2 little holes on the discs.. theres like a metal screw thing inside them but u cant do anything to it.

???

Is the handbrake up or down? if its off just belt them inbetween the studs, they will loosen up, dont use a rubber hammer its a waste of time

do u get them out from behind or something ???

cause i cant see them sticking out or anything...

Some discs have screws some dont, if they have em they will sit flush with the rotor inbetween wheel studs, if they havent been off in a while you'll need a good hammer, WD40 will help too, and lets not forget perserverance! :(

are u talking about the 2 screws ive circled in my pic ??

how do i get them out.... ?? theres nothing to put the spanner on..... ??? or am i missing something :( ?

this hammer you speak of.. wat am i hitting specificaly.. i was hitting the rotor before, but that didnt do squat

thanks :ninja:

post-19018-1163238517.jpg

hey dude first off as it has been mentioned is you hand brake off? If its not then it will be near impossible to take the disc off.

Second there is no screws holding the discs on, the two holes u have circled are for YOU to thread 2 bolts into, do them up and the disc will pop off.

are u talking about the 2 screws ive circled in my pic ??

how do i get them out.... ?? theres nothing to put the spanner on..... ??? or am i missing something :( ?

this hammer you speak of.. wat am i hitting specificaly.. i was hitting the rotor before, but that didnt do squat

thanks :ninja:

ok plan B.

Those little holes you circled, they are there to remove the disc if its tough,

They will be a 10mm or 12 mm bolt,

the bolt will have to be fairly long, and you just screw em in and they will push the disc off for you :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...