Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok

The car is a nissan skyline R32 GTS-T (no modifications)

When its cold it cant be driven untill the temperature needle starts to go up.

What it does is this:

If you slowly push the gas pedal and the revs will hold on 1100RPM and it wil struggle to go any higher

Its like is got a flat spot. If you give it abit more it will get over that flat spot and will go higher in RPM.

As you can imagin it would make it a pain to drive.

Once its warm its fine and this "flat spot" magically dissapears!

My friends R32 doesnt do this (although its bad to not warm up ur car, he can gun it from the word go, no flat spot) Where as i have to sit there and warm it up so it dont drive like sh#t.

Any help would be great

Cheers Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111739-no-power-on-start-up-when-its-cold/
Share on other sites

Man u shouldnt be driving ur car when its cold. the oil pressure and temp have to be right.

i sometimes have to warm my car up for 7 min. just set turbo timer and go do somethin else till its warm.

cauz driving well its cold can cauz u problems.

Man u shouldnt be driving ur car when its cold. the oil pressure and temp have to be right.

i sometimes have to warm my car up for 7 min. just set turbo timer and go do somethin else till its warm.

cauz driving well its cold can cauz u problems.

and then after 7 minutes of sitting at idle, you drive off with a freezing cold gearbox, diff etc....

start the car, run it for 30sec-1min to let the oil coat parts, then drive it nice and easy and at low revs until EVERYTHING is up to temp and ready to go.

Ok

The car is a nissan skyline R32 GTS-T (no modifications)

When its cold it cant be driven untill the temperature needle starts to go up.

What it does is this:

If you slowly push the gas pedal and the revs will hold on 1100RPM and it wil struggle to go any higher

Its like is got a flat spot. If you give it abit more it will get over that flat spot and will go higher in RPM.

As you can imagin it would make it a pain to drive.

Once its warm its fine and this "flat spot" magically dissapears!

My friends R32 doesnt do this (although its bad to not warm up ur car, he can gun it from the word go, no flat spot) Where as i have to sit there and warm it up so it dont drive like sh#t.

Any help would be great

Cheers Matt

What viscosity of engine oil did you used? What's the temp now at your location? Your oil could be too thick.

Edited by Trex101

just feels like the r32 cold fuel map is a little too rich and it coughs and splutters everywhere. soon as water temp reaches 80 degrees (approx) then you obviously change to the warm map where fuel and ignition suit the car better.

perhaps the cold start of the Power FC is better suited than the factory ecu? im changing over soon so should be able to let you know

im sure others have already changed to the FC and would be able to share experiences

dude i never drive my car cold thats not what i said

I said thats its still wierd reving after like ten mins of warm up time

Also im just saying that any body could drive their car at like 20kph when cold yea? Mine doesnt even do that. u know what i mean

My car does the same thing, intermittently.

Cleaning the AFMs helps - usually prevents it occurring for a few weeks.

And thumbsup to Dezz - agree 100% dude, having your car idle to 'warm up' is not required and you're worse off for doing so.

Does it idle funny on start up? Mine does on a cold start, last time i started it cold the revs went from 0 - 900 to 100- 900 and repeated until i gave it some throttle, which then did nothing... eventually the reves went up to 1200 sat there for a few secs then came down to 900 and sat there fine..

Usually when that happens, when i drive off and then disengage the clutch at my first stop, it almost stalls, but doesn't... even sometimes does that when it's completely warm...

I have cleaned my spark plugs and it is smoother on idle...but still does the whole spluttering thing occasionally...

Interested to know if they are similar problems.... mine might be fuel line, coz i can smell fuel sometimes whilst driving... which would explain the dodgy start up... im gonna try injector cleaner, but i reckon there must be a slightly cracked hose somewhere....

GODDAMM CARS GODDAMMITTT!! :P

Have you checked your cold start, (automative choke)

Ive got the same problem at start up, idle goes up and down as it wants, give it a couple of revs, up to about 3000, do that twice and it just idles by its self after that.

Yeah, I've got the same problem. When it's cold, the revs barely run, around 100-200rpm. Sometimes it stalls out, and you hear this squealling-whining noise under the bonnet. Then you try kicking it again and it purrs.

I think maybe the fuel pump running at 6 volts doesnt supply enough fuel when its cold for the extra revs the engine wants or something like that. All I know is if you press the accelerator pedal, the revs run like normal. So I'm guessing it's a cold engine problem, probably involving the fuel system and cold-start electronics...

Damn these cars!

i had the same problem with bad idle'in, but thats cauz i had the waste gate blocked off or whatever u call it so it made the diff sound that everybody likes.

like sometimes i would start and then the car would come close to stalling and rumble a bit. then i took the corke out and then it worked fine. never putting that thing in again.

  • 2 weeks later...

ok my car does the same..

its an r32 gts-t manual.

on first startup of the day, i have to play with the gas a bit to get it to turn on. then about 2 mins later it drops idle from 1200rpm to about 800rpm and sounds like its really struggling. like R32FOURDOOR said, i also have this "flat spot" where even though im stepping on the gas pedal, the car doesnt want to rev past the 1500rpm mark. it even starts to make boost while staying at this flat sopt.

when my car warms up, it is almost gone. just occasionally comes back when i slow down to stop at the lights. it almost stalls and probably will if i dont put a bit of gas on.

ive tried everything.. clean AAC, AFM, new timing belt, idle adjustments etc but no good.

the other thing i want to mention is that when i try to adjust my idle, i can get it to about 850rpm WITHOUT the AAC valve connector plug in (idle not controlled by ECU), but as soon as it is plugged back in the ECU sends the idle up to around 1300rpm. the manual says the adjustable screw on the ECU should be turned fully ANTI-CLOCKWISE, but it also states that the idle can be adjusted a further 250rpm. but turning mine a little or a lot DOES NOT do anything to the idle..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...