Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im looking at setting up a custom turbo on a NA engine and Ive been looking at some cheaper alternatives to bring the costs down.

As the $22 boost controller thread shows, there are options that are just as good as the name brand $$$ parts :D

Has anyone had any +/- experiences with:

cheap HKS "style" BOVs

cheap Tial "style" wastgates

no name intercooler cores

no name oil catch cans

anything else?

Share the love people :P:sleep::happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111891-the-cheaper-alternatives-that-work/
Share on other sites

thats no exactly rb only advice

most of the standard bov's are fine

the aftermarket ones generally cause more problems than they are worth. the oem cores are probably better than the jap ones. the catch is a bandaid fix on another problem, fix whats making the oil get into the intake.

its an N/A engine paul..and its not an RB, so we're not talking skyline....so from the info he's given (which is little to none) we dont know that there is a turbo variant to his car....therefore there might not be a "standard" bov....

what car is it dademon?

Intercooler: Get one of those Chinese Hybrid copies (they come from same factory as genuine Hybrid apparently). This can be had for as little as a couple of hundred bucks for the core and endtanks.

Oil Catch Can: You can use a coke bottle if you like, it will do the same job.

BOV: You don't need one straight away provided you don't run the boost too high.

Wastegate: I wouldn't skip on quality here, as your engine and turbo health rely on the wastegate functioning correctly.

Hey guys,

Im looking at setting up a custom turbo on a NA engine and Ive been looking at some cheaper alternatives to bring the costs down.

As the $22 boost controller thread shows, there are options that are just as good as the name brand $$$ parts :)

Has anyone had any +/- experiences with:

cheap HKS "style" BOVs

cheap Tial "style" wastgates

no name intercooler cores

no name oil catch cans

anything else?

Share the love people :P:P:sleep:

I've got a Chinacopy Fmic 300x600x76, not problems :)

-Cheap Chinacopy Westgate i would stay away, as i heard they have problems with holding boost, opening up at the right time and are just general a bad made item

-Same thing about the Bov, i heard they are just crap. seeing as you can get a secondhand jap spec (hks/blitz etc) bov for around $150-$250 i see no point getting a copy :)

-No name oil catch cans are fine, there is no real difference between a cusco one and they dont have any moving parts, so its ok

hope that helps :)

Cheers Michael :)

ps paulr33, if you can read the topic you would have notice, that they were asking "Has anyone had any +/- experiences with", if you cant answer the question dont post

its an N/A engine paul..and its not an RB, so we're not talking skyline....so from the info he's given (which is little to none) we dont know that there is a turbo variant to his car....therefore there might not be a "standard" bov....

what car is it dademon?

Its actually a LS1 (5.7L Commodore). There's no point in getting opinions off the other V8 guys, I figure the SAU guys are the ones with actual hands on turbo knowledge :)

Im looking to turbo it which quite a few people are doing now but I dont fancy laying down the $10,000 for the "popular" kit.

The off-the-shelf kits are basically a GT35/40R, intercooler and pipes, BOV, wastegate and exhaust manifolds.

So, I want to run low boost (less than 12psi) single turbo. Ive talked to a few people that say a T04Z with a 1.32 housing is probably the way to go, but I dont know which other parts are capable of supporting this without blowing a bulk of $$$ on name brand parts.

Any help, no matter how small, would be really appreciated guys :thumbsup:

Dynomotive in Bayswater VIC have had a lot of success with turbocharging the LS1. They were the first to run a nine with A ls1 in oz so I dare say they have some research up there belt. They also had a LOT to do with the APS twin kit available.

In regards to not having to use a name brand part I have seen a few turbocharged LS1s come out there shop with the generic Bosch type BOV(s) and not have troubles.

I have an RB20det with 280+rwkw and I use a $40 bosch BOV without serious issue. Remember that a lot of BOV leaking issues is because they are plumbed in on the hot side of a restrictive cooler.

If you have a look at http://www.ls1turbo.com.au/ they are using KKR turbo, which are cheap as....(~$900)

If you look at this picture of one of their kits:

fullkit.jpg

there isn't a whole lot to them. KKR turbo, exhaust manifold (surely any decent exhaust shop could do this for under $1000), intercooler ($200 + ~$400 for piping, silicone and clamps), wastegate and some lines (~$500), add another $500 for unexpected bits and pieces and do the install yourself.

I'm not sure what they charge for their kits, but I would bet it's a lot more than the sum of the parts involved....

there isn't a whole lot to them. KKR turbo, exhaust manifold (surely any decent exhaust shop could do this for under $1000), intercooler ($200 + ~$400 for piping, silicone and clamps), wastegate and some lines (~$500), add another $500 for unexpected bits and pieces and do the install yourself.

I'm not sure what they charge for their kits, but I would bet it's a lot more than the sum of the parts involved....

Try $8,900 :D

Edited by dadem0n

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...