Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im looking at setting up a custom turbo on a NA engine and Ive been looking at some cheaper alternatives to bring the costs down.

As the $22 boost controller thread shows, there are options that are just as good as the name brand $$$ parts :D

Has anyone had any +/- experiences with:

cheap HKS "style" BOVs

cheap Tial "style" wastgates

no name intercooler cores

no name oil catch cans

anything else?

Share the love people :P:sleep::happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111891-the-cheaper-alternatives-that-work/
Share on other sites

thats no exactly rb only advice

most of the standard bov's are fine

the aftermarket ones generally cause more problems than they are worth. the oem cores are probably better than the jap ones. the catch is a bandaid fix on another problem, fix whats making the oil get into the intake.

its an N/A engine paul..and its not an RB, so we're not talking skyline....so from the info he's given (which is little to none) we dont know that there is a turbo variant to his car....therefore there might not be a "standard" bov....

what car is it dademon?

Intercooler: Get one of those Chinese Hybrid copies (they come from same factory as genuine Hybrid apparently). This can be had for as little as a couple of hundred bucks for the core and endtanks.

Oil Catch Can: You can use a coke bottle if you like, it will do the same job.

BOV: You don't need one straight away provided you don't run the boost too high.

Wastegate: I wouldn't skip on quality here, as your engine and turbo health rely on the wastegate functioning correctly.

Hey guys,

Im looking at setting up a custom turbo on a NA engine and Ive been looking at some cheaper alternatives to bring the costs down.

As the $22 boost controller thread shows, there are options that are just as good as the name brand $$$ parts :)

Has anyone had any +/- experiences with:

cheap HKS "style" BOVs

cheap Tial "style" wastgates

no name intercooler cores

no name oil catch cans

anything else?

Share the love people :P:P:sleep:

I've got a Chinacopy Fmic 300x600x76, not problems :)

-Cheap Chinacopy Westgate i would stay away, as i heard they have problems with holding boost, opening up at the right time and are just general a bad made item

-Same thing about the Bov, i heard they are just crap. seeing as you can get a secondhand jap spec (hks/blitz etc) bov for around $150-$250 i see no point getting a copy :)

-No name oil catch cans are fine, there is no real difference between a cusco one and they dont have any moving parts, so its ok

hope that helps :)

Cheers Michael :)

ps paulr33, if you can read the topic you would have notice, that they were asking "Has anyone had any +/- experiences with", if you cant answer the question dont post

its an N/A engine paul..and its not an RB, so we're not talking skyline....so from the info he's given (which is little to none) we dont know that there is a turbo variant to his car....therefore there might not be a "standard" bov....

what car is it dademon?

Its actually a LS1 (5.7L Commodore). There's no point in getting opinions off the other V8 guys, I figure the SAU guys are the ones with actual hands on turbo knowledge :)

Im looking to turbo it which quite a few people are doing now but I dont fancy laying down the $10,000 for the "popular" kit.

The off-the-shelf kits are basically a GT35/40R, intercooler and pipes, BOV, wastegate and exhaust manifolds.

So, I want to run low boost (less than 12psi) single turbo. Ive talked to a few people that say a T04Z with a 1.32 housing is probably the way to go, but I dont know which other parts are capable of supporting this without blowing a bulk of $$$ on name brand parts.

Any help, no matter how small, would be really appreciated guys :thumbsup:

Dynomotive in Bayswater VIC have had a lot of success with turbocharging the LS1. They were the first to run a nine with A ls1 in oz so I dare say they have some research up there belt. They also had a LOT to do with the APS twin kit available.

In regards to not having to use a name brand part I have seen a few turbocharged LS1s come out there shop with the generic Bosch type BOV(s) and not have troubles.

I have an RB20det with 280+rwkw and I use a $40 bosch BOV without serious issue. Remember that a lot of BOV leaking issues is because they are plumbed in on the hot side of a restrictive cooler.

If you have a look at http://www.ls1turbo.com.au/ they are using KKR turbo, which are cheap as....(~$900)

If you look at this picture of one of their kits:

fullkit.jpg

there isn't a whole lot to them. KKR turbo, exhaust manifold (surely any decent exhaust shop could do this for under $1000), intercooler ($200 + ~$400 for piping, silicone and clamps), wastegate and some lines (~$500), add another $500 for unexpected bits and pieces and do the install yourself.

I'm not sure what they charge for their kits, but I would bet it's a lot more than the sum of the parts involved....

there isn't a whole lot to them. KKR turbo, exhaust manifold (surely any decent exhaust shop could do this for under $1000), intercooler ($200 + ~$400 for piping, silicone and clamps), wastegate and some lines (~$500), add another $500 for unexpected bits and pieces and do the install yourself.

I'm not sure what they charge for their kits, but I would bet it's a lot more than the sum of the parts involved....

Try $8,900 :D

Edited by dadem0n

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...