Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I realise there are many various types available,

are there any atmo's that don't cause the car to stall, etc, etc

In Short No.

The lack of air on the intake IS the reason why it stalls.

Throw a pod on and it'll make a sound.

or

Block off the stock BOV with a pod andf it'll make a cooler sound.

or

Forget about sound and concentrate on other things like CAI, Hi Flow CATS and FMIC.

Moot

No benefit.

Much the same way as there is no benefit with running a atmo BOV. How about you tell us why you want a atmo bov?

If it's for something other than then rice factor then perhaps we can collectively think of another solution for your untold troubles.

Moot

the only way to make the stock bov vent to atmo properly is to get a one way valve on to the venting end.

this can be done.

if you really want to, measure the OD of the bov outlet then go to a plumbing store with those measurements and look for a one way valve to fit over that OD. so on idle when the bov is open, air will not be sucked in from there.

NOTE: this will alow you to get the sound you want but it doesn't prevent the running rich and so forth..

The car came with the atmo BOV on it, just trying to work out whats better.

I see....

So why do you want to turn a stock BOV (which you don't have) into an atmo one?

Trust me...the stock one is loud!!!! If you wanna make it louder then get a metal intake pipe.

The stock one is ten times better on a stock ECU. If you get a power FC then go atmo all the way

End of Story.

it would be very silly to change to a map sensor ecu just for a stupid BOV.

but yes it would work a bit better. you cannot get djetro rb20 but you can get an rb26 djetro working on an rb20 to achieve the same goal

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...