Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

0secs when i take off usually, 1-0mins stopping

any cars its a good idea to run up and run down, but still, they're modern cars I am sure they can handle it. Oil can start to solidify in the turbo apparently if you just turn straight off, but i'm not sure how true that is... and whether for daily driving (not a track) that it matters who knows.

Anybody regularly pull turbos off skylines regularly? Do you regularly find bad oil deposits?

sometimes i let mine idle for a bit and sometimes i dont. when i dont i always drive it soft. however if im running late to work or something i'll run outside and start it up and come back about 7 minutes later then i can drive it harder sooner and get to work on time.

I usually drive off (reverse out of driveway) within about 10 secs of (cold) starting the engine, but never pull more than about 3000 rpm, and never pull boost, until the engine is up to full operating temp.

personally i do what most do, start, wait a min or two then drive off and stay off boost till water temps get +60degrees celcius

i read in a recent Merc users guide for a car that i dont remeber, and it said

"dont let the car idle to warm it up in the one spot...start the engine, let idle for a min, then drive but keeping the rpm's low. this is a more effective method of warming up all engine components"

or something along those lines

In the morning I'll start my car, put the turbo timer on 5 mins, then lock and arm the car (car alarm detects TT). I never usually let it warm up for less than 5 mins, but about 2 mins cold start is ok. If the car was driven within a few hours, about a minute does it for me.

As for cooling down, i leave it for 1 min, or if I have REALLY been caning it, about 2 mins.

I dont give it any stick either until temp is half way, and oil preasure is down to 2bar on idle.

This was the approach I took on my R31, and after 7 years (and i used to cane the crap out of it when it was warm), I never once got anything repaired (except fan clutch), and compression was almost the same as it was when i bought it. Hardly ANY noticable power loss.

What i do may be overkill, but if you really take care of your car, chances are it will be a lot lighter on your wallet!

my 2c

Originally posted by whistla

personally i do what most do, start, wait a min or two then drive off and stay off boost till water temps get +60degrees celcius

i read in a recent Merc users guide for a car that i dont remeber, and it said  

"dont let the car idle to warm it up in the one spot...start the engine, let idle for a min, then drive but keeping the rpm's low.  this is a more effective method of warming up all engine components"  

or something along those lines

do you drive a merc? :alien:

Originally posted by whistla

i read in a recent Merc users guide for a car that i dont remeber, and it said  

"dont let the car idle to warm it up in the one spot...start the engine, let idle for a min, then drive but keeping the rpm's low.  this is a more effective method of warming up all engine components"  

or something along those lines

Thats b/c some people assume that if you warm it up for 10 -15 mins at home in the garage, its ok to thrash it afterwards.... you also need to consider the gearbox, the diff etc. I agree 1 or 2 mins is sufficient, but then you still gotta take it easy...

I got a mate who couldn't give a rats arse for his R31, in the morning he starts the car with the clutch in, and ready in first gear. As soon as it has cranked over, he floors it and lets one rip down his street to warm it up. I keep telling him off, but he seriously couldn't care less for his car...

He also does this b/c his choke is wrecked, so this prevents his car from stalling at the first set of lights...

I normally kick it over as soon as I get in the car, then let it idle while I get myself ready - normally between 30 and 60 seconds. Then not go over 3K RPM until the engine is nice and toasty. Depending on how I drive it, I may turn it straight off (like a trip up the road to the shops) or leave it running for up to 7 minutes (long trip on the open road draging off everything I come across). Normally I leave it for about 3 minutes after an average drive. Listen to some music, check the mailbox, clean off the mats, or just admire my toy :-)

Guest nismogtsx

Same as the rest.... Let it idle for a minute while i get my glasses out and light up a smoke... then im ready... But i find the car produces more power prior top the TT reading an air/fuel ratio...

This week end im gonna d/c the O2 sensor from the ECU and see what happens.... Should go hard but i believe it will chew fuel...

Might be a good drag racing technique....

Will post the results...

yeah-i read in a bmw manual that the most efficient way to warm up the car was just to drive off, going easy on the accelrator for about 5 mins-seems easy enough to me, and better than sitting round waiting for a car to warm up... so yeah, just stay off boost (if u can help it) for like five mins

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...