Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, just after a bit of advice. I am looking at buying a new T70 turbo from XS Power for my s1 r33 gts-t and was wondering if it was worthwhile. Whats it like compared to a t3/4? I will be buying this with a top mount manifold and 38 mm external wastegate. My car is pretty much stock atm except for a 3" turbo back exhaust and pod so I want to know what sort of power increase I would be looking at.

The specs of the turbo are:

OIL COOLED

GARRETT INTERNALS

WET FLOATING BALL BEARINGS

SHAFT & WHEEL TRIM 64.5MM

COMPRESSOR WHEEL SUPER 70 60.5MM

TURBINE HOUSING A/R .84

COMPRESSOR HOUSING A/R RATIO .70

V-BAND FLANGE

Thanks for your time.

Edited by the_barman82
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112316-t70-turbo-anyone-used-one/
Share on other sites

The real reason I want to get this is cuz I somehow sucked something into my turbo before and blew it so now the car is just gathering dust in the garage.

By T3/4 I mean a T3/T4 hybrid, high flowed T3.

to get the benefit out of it you need a fair list of suppporting mods otherwise its not a safe tune and youll just hit stupid limits. im gonna write up a turbo upgrade faq. we get these questions weekly, the same thing over, no one bothers to search

' date='4 Apr 2006, 05:04 PM' post='2070855']

WHAT is a t3/4 turbo?

a random bucket of sh|t from the mid 90's taht the VL boys love to use as its cheap.

Get a proper Garrett/HKS turbo IMO.

They are designed for each specific use.

While it will make power, and probably blow your motor up without (as also stated) a lot of other modifications... they dont work as well as something that has a setup in mind.

First you need to set a power goal

Second you need to workout the mods that you will need to support that power goal

Third - Use the search button as your goal (im sure) is covered already

The T70 turbo from XSpower / SSautochrome is CRAP!! to say the least!

The one i had blew after a short time. NOT thrashing it! Sent it to my turbo company, they took it apart.. NO ball bearings, assembled like crap. some KKK parts, NO garret parts.

Stay away from it, and buy a turbo from a know company.

a random bucket of sh|t from the mid 90's taht the VL boys love to use as its cheap.

Get a proper Garrett/HKS turbo IMO.

They are designed for each specific use.

While it will make power, and probably blow your motor up without (as also stated) a lot of other modifications... they dont work as well as something that has a setup in mind.

First you need to set a power goal

Second you need to workout the mods that you will need to support that power goal

Third - Use the search button as your goal (im sure) is covered already

As you may have devised from my name I am but a lowly barman with very limited funds. I am not after any huge power gains and the only reason I wanted to but these things is its only $400 US for the lot. Of course I will be buying a fmic, power fc, pump, injectors etc one day but until then I just want to get the car back on the road. I will be keeping it a low 8-9 psi boost until properly tuned to keep it reliable.

The T70 turbo from XSpower / SSautochrome is CRAP!! to say the least!

The one i had blew after a short time. NOT thrashing it! Sent it to my turbo company, they took it apart.. NO ball bearings, assembled like crap. some KKK parts, NO garret parts.

Stay away from it, and buy a turbo from a know company.

ARGH!! Damn I wish I wouldn't rush into things!! I have already bid for it and have only 3 hours left for someone to bid higher. Looks like I just committed turbo suicide before I even started the car.

dang :P

if you bolt it on it will probably be ok but i expect a fair chunk of lag and excess airflow protection to kick in fairly quickly. its a fair bit of work to bolt it on given its an manifold change and likely your afm stuff wont mate up and dump pipe probably wont either

Desperation will do funny things to a man. So will a 60 hour week with a total of 10 hours sleep. Bars suck. Guess I will have to find out if it all bolts up when it arrives, my mech mate will have to do the lot as I have to work. He will tell me in no uncertain terms what is required before I can toss my backup car and actually drive my baby. Thanks heaps for the advice guys, will stay updated when possible, back to work I go. :P

hmm sounds interesting

keep us posted on how this new turbo goes on stock boost without the supporting mods... i wonder if your car will be able to handle it?

hope so.... cos i was about to make the same mistake before a while ago

goodluck barman

Did you read his post?

He has a stock motor, and stock parts mostly...

Bringing up a 350rwkw application that will cost you nothing short of $15,000 is totally irrelevant.

And its also a bit hard to say "they arent crap" when you havent yet posted a dyno graph :D

If you did (in the dyno results thread) we could see where its making boost and those sorts of things, but it would make his car one thing

slower

DAMMIT!! Looks like I have to fork out the $400 US for the super t70. Gee, always wanted a dust collecting car and a big turbo for a book stand. Might have to chase the bank for a loan. Oh and I would love to have used my stock turbo but unfortunately its gone to boosted hell. Foreign objects suck especially when it will cost upwards of $1400 to fix.

cheers for the help and advice guys, gonna have to lose an arm or something to get compo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...