Jump to content
SAU Community

Jun Spec R32


Recommended Posts

1989 Gtst Skyline R32

Calsonic Blue, JUN spec car straight from Japan!! this puppy has carpet and roof lining stripped (as it came from Jap) it has a Vertex Kit (fitted 2weeks ago)

Hks or Trust Turbo (unsure)

Metal Head Gasket

all internals upgraded

2 extra injectors

Front mount

Oil cooler (braided lines)

Greddy BOV

GTR Radiator upgrade with copper core (new)

M's Pod Filter

JUN piggy back computer

Greddy Rebic

HKS Boost controller

3 omori guages and one blitz

Heavy Duty clutch(new)

2 way mech LSD

Tein Coilovers

Tein adjustable castor rods

Strut braces front and rear

B-pillar brace

Sway bar upgrade

Trial Wheels

HKS turbo back system

Nismo Gear knob

alarm

Gearbox has been upgraded (by JUN)

sparco evo fix back

HKS turbo timer

Geniune Veilside pod mirrors

3 point Harness

Power Steering pump replaced last week (these seem to go on older lines)

Clear indicators

Kenwood H/unit

Cusco E-brake button

2 spare sets of wheels can go with it!!

asking $17,000 will consider trade on JDM sprinter

you can call me on 0431472061 (ROB) im located in Sydney, Rego is over 6 months

also just to note: This car was built by JUN since it arrived about a year ago i have upgraded the boost controller the turbo timer, Vertex kit. I always have all the work done by BD4's!! The Hicas is locked out. when i got the car it was dyno'd at 171kw on stock boost, scince than the injector and top of the engine has been cleaned and the car has been retuned by Yosh (at BD4's) it now has well over 200kw @ 1bar. By the looks over the head Gasket and Injectors it could take up to 1.5 bar!!

All in all you are getting a kick ass Skyline that you can either take to the track or just a good street car that gives commodore drivers the shits. I really dont want to sell this car, its going to break my heart but i cant afford two cars at this level! So it has to sadly go! Who ever gets it is getting a great deal!! Not many cars have had the pleasure of been touch by JUN!!

post-24949-1144233979.jpg

post-24949-1144234044.jpg

post-24949-1144234141.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

gtrboy your just cut that a GTST can slam your cock extension GTR.. but i guess you are not as bad as that loser that came on the old pac run in the black GTR.. yayaya a good driver is always someone that can slam on the brakes before a corner take it like grandma than goes as fast as possible on the straights.. GTR.. make me laugh! even Beau's 86 was giving you fools a run for it with no brake pads..

Rob

Edited by beauy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock R33 boost control, with the exhaust, and FMIC done, will boost creep. There is no tuning around it if it is the factory boost solenoid.   If it has an aftermarket electronic boost controller, the settings/mapping can be altered in it.   Oil could be anything as mentioned, however did it ever do it before you did the turbo swap? How much and how often did you drive the car before the swap?   I'm hinging on too much oil supply, or it's not draining properly.   To check, pull the air outlet off the turbo. Is it full of oil? Drop the exhaust at the turbo, does it appears to be oiled/coked? Now pull turbo and check the exhaust manifold, does it appears oiled and coked the same way?   Secondly, the PCV could even be stuffed / not functioning properly and will cause blowing of blue smoke.
    • Almost any ECU would work, from a 30 yr old PowerFC to a new Motec/Autronic. But presumably you want new middle of the road ECU, meaning that you want a Haltech or a Link, most likely. As to which model though? I dunno. I don't keep track of what they have in their current ranges. You don't want a plug in though, because plug ins can start to cause you the same wiring issues that you have to chase up with your stock ECU/loom swaps when an engine transplant is involved. If you use a Haltech (and presumably a Link) you could put the base map for the engine in and drive it around and not even need to "tune" it. It will work just fine. I can't recommend a tuner without a location (and even then I can't recommend many, being as I never use any tuners except myself and my brother-in-law). And not many tuners are happy to remote tune. Maybe they'd be happier doing it for a basically stock setup that just needs to be demonstrated to be working properly. But even then, not being able to be with the car to see what the hell is going on and sort out the inevitable problems that will result from an engine conversion done by an amateur..... unlikely to be enthusiastic about the job. And if you think that just adding 2 wires for the boost sensor is difficult - you don't want to be trying to install and set up an aftermarket ECU. You're going to have to bite down hard on something with either approach.
    • wired everything up and confirmed that the red with white stripe is indeed the fuel pump pin on this harness. 
×
×
  • Create New...