Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Brad,

Yeah mate I know exactly where your coming from, not telling me anything I didn't already know. Traction & 60' is EVERYTHING in drag racing! Your cars modest power level (mind you low weight too) its 1/4 gearing & suspension set-up is a perfect example of how it's done. Still 107mph isn't hanging around! Gearing & good power to weight is the big factors in the 107mph TS.

I guess it comes down to how much we're willing to compromise the set-up of our cars. Me? I like a fast car in every sense of the word. 1/4 mile, cornering, high speed & yeah I'll admit it I like it to look fast too ;). This means of course that I either change btw each set-up to suit (not worth it at my level, I'm just having fun & don't have the $$$) or I just set-up my car to be a compromise btw the lot! I'm also not prepared to trash the crap out of my car to run XXX time.

This is "my" compromise -

Drive out of the garage, fill with pump fuel.

Do the above & nothing else (not even change tyre pressure) & run 12sec 1/4's with good trap speed on road legal tyres.

Do well over 250km/h.

Tackle a bit of twisty stuff.

Look good.

Drive from Sydney to Adelaide no fuss.

Handle everyday bumper-to-bumper peak hour regardless of weather.

Be able to do some hands-on modifying.

Oh yeah & keep the cost below $30-40k

Hmmm.... An R32 GT-R sounds perfect :D

Won't be seeing any mechanic's for a while, don't have $$$ for a new clutch ATM.

Andy,

Good to see you & Matt out there mate. Bummer that Matt couldn't run ;) Thanks for the vid's dude :D I'm off to have a look @ how shit I drive down the 1/4 :)

Clint,

Yeah mate we can do side by side 13sec 1/4's with 110+mph trap speeds ;)

I had 30psi in the rear 540's - didn't bother dropping the pressure :)

Hopefully they go back to monthly SM's? Fortnightly would be nice!

Yeah a decent clutch has just landed @ number one on my to do list, once $$$ are available.

Originally posted by Clint32

Matt, that makes me feel better after my first attempt.  The mph should be good for a mid 12 at least.  What pressure were you running in the 540s tyres.  I has mine set a 10psi when i ran with some but they were 225/50/16 so 17's will need a bit more.

Are they going to be running a meet at the start of every month now?  If so i should have all my problems fixed by then, although i think once i get traction my clutch will fry itself as well.  

A mate got a quote from direct clutch in Qld for his Gtr and a twin plate was only about $1600 trade, with a flywheel, they are supposed to be a very good clutch just a bit noisier than nornal multi plate clutches.  but way cheaper.  

What was wrong with MattR's tyres, that they were diff than the front or diff on each side.

Matt/Andy,

Having just looked at the MPG footage of the drags I realise you guys were still there after my last pass! I thought you'd left , so I did too! Sorry :)

Edit: Thanks again for the vid footage Andy! Looks good mate. Geeze my car looks slow ;) Gotta' love the commentators, "yep you just buy one of these off the lot, up the boost & away you go" Wish I could've run low 13's on a bit of extra boost ;)

hehe no worries Matt .... we went up on the hill to see a couple of mates and were gonna chase you up after but there were ppl everywhere, it was too cold, I was too pissed off etc etc

Yeah "on a bit of extra boost" ROFLMAO - you will notice if u listened to the end of my run one commentator calls my car a Commodore .... luckily the other commentator corrects him and sticks up for my slow run saying I must have a problem (understatement!).

Yeah the videos make even your 13 second quarter look slow! They sure show how both you and I wickedly bogged down at the start! But hey, it's all part of learning the art - it was our first time out there after all! As soon as I get back from Qld the new clutch will go in, then the intercooler (still working on the cooler with the wife though - might cost me a diamond ring lol) ... then I would really like a boost controller (so I can have a low street use boost, and a higher track use setting), then tune it all up and see how she goes!

Mind you I went and had a look at the new Z the other day with the missus .... it has magically appeared on my shopping list, so I have to decide whether to keep spending money on the S15, or stop now, save a bit and buy a Z .... decisions, decisions!

Hey guys,

There is a program available on the net called Cartest version 5.1 i think, anyway its all mathematical equations which allows u to work out ET's and Top speeds and stuff.

All u do is enter the details of ur car, EVERYTHING, engine size, Turbo/NA, Gear ratios, Wheelbase, size of tyres, drag coef etc,

and the program can work out supposedly optimal launch revs, ET's, TS etc.

Very useful and fun, and also shows wat ur car is theoretically capable of. Anyway i thought it was heaps of fun. Try it.

Sounds like us girls missed out on all the fun. Good on you though. You make it sound like it is really hard.

nightcrawler.. your missus will love you more with a Z!

Miss^Nismo.. lets get out there girl! Im not setting high expectations.. im hoping for slowest GTST. :D

EnricoPalazzo,

I've had Cartest 5.1 for a few yrs, it's fun. If you gather ALL the info it's actually fairly accurate for the straight line stuff!

Andy,

The worlds first S15 Commodore :D

I'm going to go against the grain here mate - keep the S15 & spend $$$ on it, the new Z is cool but stick with turbo power!

Erica - :D it's not possible for her to love me more *violin playing softly in the background* lol

Matt - Yes, an S15 Commodore 'the best of both worlds' - WANKERS!

I am still very 50/50 and am currently inclined to keep the S15 .... however - the Z is 206kw standard (but really more so I hear) .... imagine then me giving it a free-flowing exhaust/intake and then later whacking on a turbo kit .... it would have to go 300kw+

Your comment about the 13 second quarter and MPH was spot on - that is freaky!

Hippy - I'm very tempted ;) .... it is an awesome car!

Enrico - thanks for th elink - I played with cartest many years ago and had lost it .... it is very interesting!

Andy,

I'd have thought the costs involved to do a custom turbo install on a new Z would be considerably higher than upgrading your S15. Plus the S15 is the last of its kind!

ummm ... good point whatisname ... maybe it will also keep its value since not many of them are made ... since they stopped production of it ... heres an idea ... sell the house ... sell the kids ... buy a zed ... put a big ass turbo on it ... rip everything in sight :) and then do the same thing to the s15 :D

Matt - I hear there are plans to make another Silvia .... S16 due for prototype next year - they were supposed to can the Silvia but there has been so much public outcry they're looking at reviving them.

I would keep the Z stock for a long time before seriously playing with it .... I would be happy with it stock for a while I think!

Hippy - ROFLMAO .... if only I could afford to!

Brad - Thanks for the info - I wasn't positive what it runs .... I agree it is one sick mutha for a 250 Ford!

S16 hey!? Good old Nissan, listening to what the people want :)

Had a quick look @ the new Z outside North East Nissan on the way home yesterday, looks ok in the flesh!

That drag Corty is impressive. 200+hp of nitrous would be fun in a motor built for it :D. "BANG" in a motor that wasn't!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...