Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Saluations All.

This maybe obvious to some, and others may pretend to know.

But I've just picked up a new clutch. it appears to of the brass (? brass) button (the plate has five separate fingers with pads on each) type.

I've been told it'll hold onto 200RwKw easily (I'm no where near that). But I've also bveen told that if you don't know what your doing you can wear a button clutch out in a very very very very very very short time if you ride it - which of course is bad in any clutch.

I'm just interested how I'll have to adjust my driving style with this clutch, will I wear the clutch out if you ease off the lights, does it have to be rev and dump at every lights to protect the clutch ?

I don't ride the clutch at all unless I'm parking or doing general driving to work (rarely) and need to ease of the light...Will I wear the clutch out quickly from just this ? I take it, it will be a new expirence in the wet too!

PS. Its a R33GTS-t and the clutch was from a southern import jap shop.

Thanks any ifo/comments would help.

ps...why is a five finger clutch stronger then a full face ? I thought the more area of contact the stronger clamping you'd get.

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1128-clutchs/
Share on other sites

The paddle/finger/button clutch is made of a different material, and the smaller area means more pressure on the paddles. From what I've been told do not ride the clutch at all, you should get used to taking off gently without riding it. It will never be as gentle as a sprung organic (Standard) clutch though.

Near the centre it's either a solid centre, or has a set of springs. The solid centre has NO give at all whereas sprung button clutch is slightly less harsh.

After having a sprung button in my car I will never go back, the sheer grip that it has is unreal, however the loss of smooth gear changes may not suit everyone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1128-clutchs/#findComment-23333
Share on other sites

Jimbo.... Dude, the twin plates are the next step up again from a button clutch. These have extreme clamping pressure and very high friction co-efficients. They are basicly on or off.... If you went back to a single plate clutch you may get smoother take off, but replace your clutch every month or two due to it not being able to cope with the power.

Sorry pal, that's the price of high performance, loss of comfort.

All I know is that I'd take performance over comfort anyday :uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1128-clutchs/#findComment-24019
Share on other sites

I'm more than happy to use the clutch how it's meant to be used (on/off) but I've never driven a multiplate clutch before so I have no idea what I'm meant to do ;) I know it sounds dumb, but I'd love to ride with someone who has a multiplate and knows how to use it.

I'm certainly not after comfort, I just don't want the cops after me at every set of lights for losing traction, also how the hell are you meant to drive in city traffic ala. Parramatta Road ? I don't know about anyone else with a multiplate clutch, but I manage to look like a bunny wabbit on extasy trying to move along at a snails pace ......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1128-clutchs/#findComment-24140
Share on other sites

thats one of the many reasons i like working nights.

my 5 puck brasser ain't no twin plate, but smooth launchs can be difficult sometimes too... night shift = no traffic. I have stopped and waited before for the traffic to ease up cause my leg gets tired. ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1128-clutchs/#findComment-24294
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...