Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A few of the Z guy's are building the Megasquirt programable ECU.The kit cost's about $250 and uses a manifold vac transducer and O2 . Suitable for turbo,and N/A. Used with an aussie O2 wide band kit will give you a variable AF ratio of between 14.7 and 12.5 (power) and is VERY accurate and fast V sig out to the ECU. Any one game?

I work in electronics and I want to give it a go soon.

http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11308-megasquirt-ecu-anyone/
Share on other sites

This thing will give you almost total control of your A/F R. Click the link below to see the variable prossessor functions.It will give real time screen shot out's and VERY accurate O2 reading's fast. No obstructional AFM's of MAF sensors. Have a lap top next to you and adjust it all on the fly in incements of 100,(very easy to read.) They will have an exhaust Ironisation feed back loop that will feed an ignition ECU as well.Perfect ignition timing alway's.

http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirtpc.html

Not a piggy back unit.It's stand alone. The Motoola prosessor has a bus speed of 8 meg,not like most that quote the xtal frequency witch is devided by 4 to get the real bus freq. It has 64 point VE table ( not 8),and is writen in Direct assenbly code which will be good to 16,000 rpm. It will drive suplimentary relay control to 500ma.

  • 5 years later...

I'm using a megasquirt 2 with the MS Extra code. I had it hooked up for fuel delivery, ignition was next on the list but I went and crashed the R32 into a pole (hopefully back soon).

Getting it to do coil on plug ignition is a bit of a mission, I was planning on making microcontroller circuit to handle it. Wasted spark would be easy however, and we already have an ignitor that's compatible with the megasquirts outputs. You do have to modify the CAS for ignition, its very similar to the Autronic wheel.

I think I paid $600 for the MS2 kit and a Wideband controller and sensor from DIYautotune.com. It would be a lot less now with our dollar up. It's not a bad deal if your willing to learn about tuning and a bit of electronics.

Keep in mind it can handle the AAC valve, boost control, spark and fuel cut rev limiters, launch control, water injection control,NOS control, wideband O2 sensor support and knock control. It's MAP sensor'd as well so you can ditch the AFM, or keep it cause it supports that too.

EDIT: If anyone wants more info just ask in here, I'll try and answer best I can

Edited by fr0st
I'm using a megasquirt 2 with the MS Extra code. I had it hooked up for fuel delivery, ignition was next on the list but I went and crashed the R32 into a pole (hopefully back soon).

Getting it to do coil on plug ignition is a bit of a mission, I was planning on making microcontroller circuit to handle it. Wasted spark would be easy however, and we already have an ignitor that's compatible with the megasquirts outputs. You do have to modify the CAS for ignition, its very similar to the Autronic wheel.

I think I paid $600 for the MS2 kit and a Wideband controller and sensor from DIYautotune.com. It would be a lot less now with our dollar up. It's not a bad deal if your willing to learn about tuning and a bit of electronics.

Keep in mind it can handle the AAC valve, boost control, spark and fuel cut rev limiters, launch control, water injection control,NOS control, wideband O2 sensor support and knock control. It's MAP sensor'd as well so you can ditch the AFM, or keep it cause it supports that too.

EDIT: If anyone wants more info just ask in here, I'll try and answer best I can

awesome mate was gonna use ms on my 32 as well, only problem being how to modify the cas???? been looking for info for ages but no luck. not sure what trigger wheel to use at all??

heh didn't even notice. I just saw on the main FI page.

You don't need to modify your Cas just to do fuel. You need to tap and buffer one of the signals from the cas and the megasquirt can read the RPM off this. The idea of the micro controller circuit was to keep the original CAS and just bend the signals to suit the MS.

Modding the cas would be fairly simple. The MS triggers off the inside (IIRC) signal which give one pulse per cylinder. The outside signal on the wheel has one pulse per degree, which is useless for the MS. What it needs is a reset pulse, once per revolution of the CAS. This pulse tells it that its back at the first cylinder. So in short, you cover the entire outside track on the CAS wheel and make a hole in between the 6th and 1st cylinder. The slots in the inside track get shorter as they go from 1 -> 6, so 1st is the largest and 6th is the shortest. The trailing edges of the inner pulses are all 60 degrees apart on the wheel so its perfectly acceptable to trigger of that.

heh didn't even notice. I just saw on the main FI page.

You don't need to modify your Cas just to do fuel. You need to tap and buffer one of the signals from the cas and the megasquirt can read the RPM off this. The idea of the micro controller circuit was to keep the original CAS and just bend the signals to suit the MS.

Modding the cas would be fairly simple. The MS triggers off the inside (IIRC) signal which give one pulse per cylinder. The outside signal on the wheel has one pulse per degree, which is useless for the MS. What it needs is a reset pulse, once per revolution of the CAS. This pulse tells it that its back at the first cylinder. So in short, you cover the entire outside track on the CAS wheel and make a hole in between the 6th and 1st cylinder. The slots in the inside track get shorter as they go from 1 -> 6, so 1st is the largest and 6th is the shortest. The trailing edges of the inner pulses are all 60 degrees apart on the wheel so its perfectly acceptable to trigger of that.

awesome thanks mate. this whole thing is going to be a big learning curve for me but im looking forward to it. is there anything else ill need to look at doing to run it for both ign and fuel?

Definitely get a wideband sensor, you can't do without it.

To make the initial maps, measure the AFR's around the rev range with the stock ECU controlling things. Once you've gotten a good idea of what the ratio's should be connect 2 or 3 of the injectors to the MS. Tune the fuel delivery till the AFR's are back to normal then connect the other 3 injectors. Tuning it from absolute scratch is a pain in the ass, this will speed up the process considerably. Just remember if you have way too much fuel your wideband can read lean, tune in small amounts and make sure your moving the right direction.

If your dead set on tuning the ignition table yourself get a knock meter. There are circuits out there that can interface the MS with factory knock sensors but there not perfect. Get something reliable so you don't go throwing rods around the engine bay.

Read up at www.msextra.com

It's an awesome feeling cruising around on an ECU you built and tuned yourself, you'll learn a metric shitload as well :blink:

  • 2 months later...

Sorry to bring up an old post but I found it with google. Check out this guys youtube clips on megasquirt. Also has some other kick vids http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=turbo280z

My friend has MS'd his porsche 924 and I am about todo my rb20det powered 260z. Nothing like learning!!!

Definitely get a wideband sensor, you can't do without it.

To make the initial maps, measure the AFR's around the rev range with the stock ECU controlling things. Once you've gotten a good idea of what the ratio's should be connect 2 or 3 of the injectors to the MS. Tune the fuel delivery till the AFR's are back to normal then connect the other 3 injectors. Tuning it from absolute scratch is a pain in the ass, this will speed up the process considerably. Just remember if you have way too much fuel your wideband can read lean, tune in small amounts and make sure your moving the right direction.

If your dead set on tuning the ignition table yourself get a knock meter. There are circuits out there that can interface the MS with factory knock sensors but there not perfect. Get something reliable so you don't go throwing rods around the engine bay.

Read up at www.msextra.com

It's an awesome feeling cruising around on an ECU you built and tuned yourself, you'll learn a metric shitload as well :miner:

  • 1 year later...
Sorry to bring up an old post but I found it with google. Check out this guys youtube clips on megasquirt. Also has some other kick vids http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=turbo280z

My friend has MS'd his porsche 924 and I am about todo my rb20det powered 260z. Nothing like learning!!!

I've managed to get MSII working with EDIS 6 on R33 GTR...I bought the board from the US...sourced the parts

here here through Jaycar etc...and the hard to find ones here: http://pjoz.com/electronics.htm#msquirt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...