Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A few of the Z guy's are building the Megasquirt programable ECU.The kit cost's about $250 and uses a manifold vac transducer and O2 . Suitable for turbo,and N/A. Used with an aussie O2 wide band kit will give you a variable AF ratio of between 14.7 and 12.5 (power) and is VERY accurate and fast V sig out to the ECU. Any one game?

I work in electronics and I want to give it a go soon.

http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11308-megasquirt-ecu-anyone/
Share on other sites

This thing will give you almost total control of your A/F R. Click the link below to see the variable prossessor functions.It will give real time screen shot out's and VERY accurate O2 reading's fast. No obstructional AFM's of MAF sensors. Have a lap top next to you and adjust it all on the fly in incements of 100,(very easy to read.) They will have an exhaust Ironisation feed back loop that will feed an ignition ECU as well.Perfect ignition timing alway's.

http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirtpc.html

Not a piggy back unit.It's stand alone. The Motoola prosessor has a bus speed of 8 meg,not like most that quote the xtal frequency witch is devided by 4 to get the real bus freq. It has 64 point VE table ( not 8),and is writen in Direct assenbly code which will be good to 16,000 rpm. It will drive suplimentary relay control to 500ma.

  • 5 years later...

I'm using a megasquirt 2 with the MS Extra code. I had it hooked up for fuel delivery, ignition was next on the list but I went and crashed the R32 into a pole (hopefully back soon).

Getting it to do coil on plug ignition is a bit of a mission, I was planning on making microcontroller circuit to handle it. Wasted spark would be easy however, and we already have an ignitor that's compatible with the megasquirts outputs. You do have to modify the CAS for ignition, its very similar to the Autronic wheel.

I think I paid $600 for the MS2 kit and a Wideband controller and sensor from DIYautotune.com. It would be a lot less now with our dollar up. It's not a bad deal if your willing to learn about tuning and a bit of electronics.

Keep in mind it can handle the AAC valve, boost control, spark and fuel cut rev limiters, launch control, water injection control,NOS control, wideband O2 sensor support and knock control. It's MAP sensor'd as well so you can ditch the AFM, or keep it cause it supports that too.

EDIT: If anyone wants more info just ask in here, I'll try and answer best I can

Edited by fr0st
I'm using a megasquirt 2 with the MS Extra code. I had it hooked up for fuel delivery, ignition was next on the list but I went and crashed the R32 into a pole (hopefully back soon).

Getting it to do coil on plug ignition is a bit of a mission, I was planning on making microcontroller circuit to handle it. Wasted spark would be easy however, and we already have an ignitor that's compatible with the megasquirts outputs. You do have to modify the CAS for ignition, its very similar to the Autronic wheel.

I think I paid $600 for the MS2 kit and a Wideband controller and sensor from DIYautotune.com. It would be a lot less now with our dollar up. It's not a bad deal if your willing to learn about tuning and a bit of electronics.

Keep in mind it can handle the AAC valve, boost control, spark and fuel cut rev limiters, launch control, water injection control,NOS control, wideband O2 sensor support and knock control. It's MAP sensor'd as well so you can ditch the AFM, or keep it cause it supports that too.

EDIT: If anyone wants more info just ask in here, I'll try and answer best I can

awesome mate was gonna use ms on my 32 as well, only problem being how to modify the cas???? been looking for info for ages but no luck. not sure what trigger wheel to use at all??

heh didn't even notice. I just saw on the main FI page.

You don't need to modify your Cas just to do fuel. You need to tap and buffer one of the signals from the cas and the megasquirt can read the RPM off this. The idea of the micro controller circuit was to keep the original CAS and just bend the signals to suit the MS.

Modding the cas would be fairly simple. The MS triggers off the inside (IIRC) signal which give one pulse per cylinder. The outside signal on the wheel has one pulse per degree, which is useless for the MS. What it needs is a reset pulse, once per revolution of the CAS. This pulse tells it that its back at the first cylinder. So in short, you cover the entire outside track on the CAS wheel and make a hole in between the 6th and 1st cylinder. The slots in the inside track get shorter as they go from 1 -> 6, so 1st is the largest and 6th is the shortest. The trailing edges of the inner pulses are all 60 degrees apart on the wheel so its perfectly acceptable to trigger of that.

heh didn't even notice. I just saw on the main FI page.

You don't need to modify your Cas just to do fuel. You need to tap and buffer one of the signals from the cas and the megasquirt can read the RPM off this. The idea of the micro controller circuit was to keep the original CAS and just bend the signals to suit the MS.

Modding the cas would be fairly simple. The MS triggers off the inside (IIRC) signal which give one pulse per cylinder. The outside signal on the wheel has one pulse per degree, which is useless for the MS. What it needs is a reset pulse, once per revolution of the CAS. This pulse tells it that its back at the first cylinder. So in short, you cover the entire outside track on the CAS wheel and make a hole in between the 6th and 1st cylinder. The slots in the inside track get shorter as they go from 1 -> 6, so 1st is the largest and 6th is the shortest. The trailing edges of the inner pulses are all 60 degrees apart on the wheel so its perfectly acceptable to trigger of that.

awesome thanks mate. this whole thing is going to be a big learning curve for me but im looking forward to it. is there anything else ill need to look at doing to run it for both ign and fuel?

Definitely get a wideband sensor, you can't do without it.

To make the initial maps, measure the AFR's around the rev range with the stock ECU controlling things. Once you've gotten a good idea of what the ratio's should be connect 2 or 3 of the injectors to the MS. Tune the fuel delivery till the AFR's are back to normal then connect the other 3 injectors. Tuning it from absolute scratch is a pain in the ass, this will speed up the process considerably. Just remember if you have way too much fuel your wideband can read lean, tune in small amounts and make sure your moving the right direction.

If your dead set on tuning the ignition table yourself get a knock meter. There are circuits out there that can interface the MS with factory knock sensors but there not perfect. Get something reliable so you don't go throwing rods around the engine bay.

Read up at www.msextra.com

It's an awesome feeling cruising around on an ECU you built and tuned yourself, you'll learn a metric shitload as well :blink:

  • 2 months later...

Sorry to bring up an old post but I found it with google. Check out this guys youtube clips on megasquirt. Also has some other kick vids http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=turbo280z

My friend has MS'd his porsche 924 and I am about todo my rb20det powered 260z. Nothing like learning!!!

Definitely get a wideband sensor, you can't do without it.

To make the initial maps, measure the AFR's around the rev range with the stock ECU controlling things. Once you've gotten a good idea of what the ratio's should be connect 2 or 3 of the injectors to the MS. Tune the fuel delivery till the AFR's are back to normal then connect the other 3 injectors. Tuning it from absolute scratch is a pain in the ass, this will speed up the process considerably. Just remember if you have way too much fuel your wideband can read lean, tune in small amounts and make sure your moving the right direction.

If your dead set on tuning the ignition table yourself get a knock meter. There are circuits out there that can interface the MS with factory knock sensors but there not perfect. Get something reliable so you don't go throwing rods around the engine bay.

Read up at www.msextra.com

It's an awesome feeling cruising around on an ECU you built and tuned yourself, you'll learn a metric shitload as well :miner:

  • 1 year later...
Sorry to bring up an old post but I found it with google. Check out this guys youtube clips on megasquirt. Also has some other kick vids http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=turbo280z

My friend has MS'd his porsche 924 and I am about todo my rb20det powered 260z. Nothing like learning!!!

I've managed to get MSII working with EDIS 6 on R33 GTR...I bought the board from the US...sourced the parts

here here through Jaycar etc...and the hard to find ones here: http://pjoz.com/electronics.htm#msquirt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...