Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there....anyone knows who can re-thread the thread on the gear stick? The thread on my gearstick has worn out and i cant screw in my gear knob at all.

PICS UP further down in the post....Anyone who can fix the problem?

Edited by J-Boy
Hi there....anyone knows who can re-thread the thread on the gear stick? The thread on my gearstick has worn out and i cant screw in my gear knob at all.

Cheers~

Try some plumbers thread tape and something sort of removable strength thread locker.. might work i guess.

How the hell do you wear down the gear thread?? :P Do you have a habit of unscrewing it at the lights or something??

Hmmm...where can i find an engineering shop? And wot's a plumber's thread tape or something? Sorry im not too familiar with those stuff...well the thread on the gearstick was already worn out when i bought the car, i also dont know how the garage in japan managed to do that.

Anyway that's a genuine Trust Gracer front bar, it came with the car.

plumber thread tape..you wrap it around the tip of the gear stick then put the gear knob on..basically tightens it up and secures it right...but once your screw the knob on..dont turn it back or else you'll have to pull the tape off and do it again.

Hmmm...where can i find an engineering shop? And wot's a plumber's thread tape or something? Sorry im not too familiar with those stuff...well the thread on the gearstick was already worn out when i bought the car, i also dont know how the garage in japan managed to do that.

Anyway that's a genuine Trust Gracer front bar, it came with the car.

I'm jealous :), looking for a decent front bar to replace my busted up one and noone can tell me what type it is so i cant get the same style

Where can i get this plumber thread tape from?

Hmmm...try looking on yahoo auctions fer 32 GTR front bars, definitely can find something in japan, the GTR32 kits here are pretty limited...im trying to find trust side skirts n rear pods to complete my kit too...got a top secret GT wing with CF plates and CF canards but i dont fit them on fer use on the street.

:(

Well i have tried using the plumber thread tape and it does secure the gearknob a bit better, at least it does not slip out easily unless i used force and pull it out...but the knob cant be screwed tight still, as in it still turns n turns...but well it will do fer now i guess. :P

If you reckon the gear knob keeps turning even when it bottoms out, generally means that either the thread on the stick is stuffed or the thread on the knob is stuffed. A few edges could be chipped off, or even most of them.

Just out of curiosity, does the gear knob even have a thread in it?

If so, is it loose to turn onto the gear stick? It could be the wrong thread or wrong size, and someone previously has just jammed it on and cross threaded it which has made it how it is.

If you reckon the gear knob keeps turning even when it bottoms out, generally means that either the thread on the stick is stuffed or the thread on the knob is stuffed. A few edges could be chipped off, or even most of them.

Just out of curiosity, does the gear knob even have a thread in it?

If so, is it loose to turn onto the gear stick? It could be the wrong thread or wrong size, and someone previously has just jammed it on and cross threaded it which has made it how it is.

i got mine off of ebay cost me like 89 bucks and it is sexy. nismo one comes in a mad little nismo box and i checked with the nismo catalogue at work and it was the same. got a price through work and they wanted like 115 bucks for it so im happy

Well i know its not the thread on the gearknob itself because i had it trial fitted onto another gtr and it fitted perfectly, so it is my gear stick thread itself. The thread tape isn't holding it anymore....i really need to rethread the gear stick....anyone can tell me who n where does re-threading?

Cheers~

well having your shifter re threaded isnt going to help you much, as the new thread will be thinner than the diameter required to fit your shift knob.

i suggest you go to a spair parts or wrecker and ask for a shifter, or buy yourself an aftermarket shifter.

you wont have much luck at all putting your gear knob onto the shifter once you re tap the thread.

If I could see it I could tell you whats wrong and maybe fix it.

Does the thread on the the stick look OK? or is it worn down and lumpy insted of the usual /\/\/\/\/\/\ shape? You can get helicoils that repair threads or I can weld it and rethread it, without seeing it, its hard to say what to do, post up a pic to give me a better idea.

Hey there...well i can still see a bit of the ^v^v^v pattern..but certain parts feel a little smooth, so that might be the reason, im very sure its the thread on the stick that is the problem and not the knob...hmmm how can i meet up with u to let u have a look...? I will try to take a close up picture of it tmr and put it up. Where is helicoils anyway? It sucks cuz i cant change gear as smoothly especially when changing faster, and it doesn't help with an aftermarket gearbox that is really stiff n hard.

Cheers~

if u are looking for an engineering shop, if terry cant help ya, then just look one up in the yellowpages. there should be heaps in brisbane area. just go to your local industrial area and your will surely find a metal shop. they can do anything thats why they are metal fabricators. :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...