Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there....anyone knows who can re-thread the thread on the gear stick? The thread on my gearstick has worn out and i cant screw in my gear knob at all.

PICS UP further down in the post....Anyone who can fix the problem?

Edited by J-Boy
Hi there....anyone knows who can re-thread the thread on the gear stick? The thread on my gearstick has worn out and i cant screw in my gear knob at all.

Cheers~

Try some plumbers thread tape and something sort of removable strength thread locker.. might work i guess.

How the hell do you wear down the gear thread?? :P Do you have a habit of unscrewing it at the lights or something??

Hmmm...where can i find an engineering shop? And wot's a plumber's thread tape or something? Sorry im not too familiar with those stuff...well the thread on the gearstick was already worn out when i bought the car, i also dont know how the garage in japan managed to do that.

Anyway that's a genuine Trust Gracer front bar, it came with the car.

plumber thread tape..you wrap it around the tip of the gear stick then put the gear knob on..basically tightens it up and secures it right...but once your screw the knob on..dont turn it back or else you'll have to pull the tape off and do it again.

Hmmm...where can i find an engineering shop? And wot's a plumber's thread tape or something? Sorry im not too familiar with those stuff...well the thread on the gearstick was already worn out when i bought the car, i also dont know how the garage in japan managed to do that.

Anyway that's a genuine Trust Gracer front bar, it came with the car.

I'm jealous :), looking for a decent front bar to replace my busted up one and noone can tell me what type it is so i cant get the same style

Where can i get this plumber thread tape from?

Hmmm...try looking on yahoo auctions fer 32 GTR front bars, definitely can find something in japan, the GTR32 kits here are pretty limited...im trying to find trust side skirts n rear pods to complete my kit too...got a top secret GT wing with CF plates and CF canards but i dont fit them on fer use on the street.

:(

Well i have tried using the plumber thread tape and it does secure the gearknob a bit better, at least it does not slip out easily unless i used force and pull it out...but the knob cant be screwed tight still, as in it still turns n turns...but well it will do fer now i guess. :P

If you reckon the gear knob keeps turning even when it bottoms out, generally means that either the thread on the stick is stuffed or the thread on the knob is stuffed. A few edges could be chipped off, or even most of them.

Just out of curiosity, does the gear knob even have a thread in it?

If so, is it loose to turn onto the gear stick? It could be the wrong thread or wrong size, and someone previously has just jammed it on and cross threaded it which has made it how it is.

If you reckon the gear knob keeps turning even when it bottoms out, generally means that either the thread on the stick is stuffed or the thread on the knob is stuffed. A few edges could be chipped off, or even most of them.

Just out of curiosity, does the gear knob even have a thread in it?

If so, is it loose to turn onto the gear stick? It could be the wrong thread or wrong size, and someone previously has just jammed it on and cross threaded it which has made it how it is.

i got mine off of ebay cost me like 89 bucks and it is sexy. nismo one comes in a mad little nismo box and i checked with the nismo catalogue at work and it was the same. got a price through work and they wanted like 115 bucks for it so im happy

Well i know its not the thread on the gearknob itself because i had it trial fitted onto another gtr and it fitted perfectly, so it is my gear stick thread itself. The thread tape isn't holding it anymore....i really need to rethread the gear stick....anyone can tell me who n where does re-threading?

Cheers~

well having your shifter re threaded isnt going to help you much, as the new thread will be thinner than the diameter required to fit your shift knob.

i suggest you go to a spair parts or wrecker and ask for a shifter, or buy yourself an aftermarket shifter.

you wont have much luck at all putting your gear knob onto the shifter once you re tap the thread.

If I could see it I could tell you whats wrong and maybe fix it.

Does the thread on the the stick look OK? or is it worn down and lumpy insted of the usual /\/\/\/\/\/\ shape? You can get helicoils that repair threads or I can weld it and rethread it, without seeing it, its hard to say what to do, post up a pic to give me a better idea.

Hey there...well i can still see a bit of the ^v^v^v pattern..but certain parts feel a little smooth, so that might be the reason, im very sure its the thread on the stick that is the problem and not the knob...hmmm how can i meet up with u to let u have a look...? I will try to take a close up picture of it tmr and put it up. Where is helicoils anyway? It sucks cuz i cant change gear as smoothly especially when changing faster, and it doesn't help with an aftermarket gearbox that is really stiff n hard.

Cheers~

if u are looking for an engineering shop, if terry cant help ya, then just look one up in the yellowpages. there should be heaps in brisbane area. just go to your local industrial area and your will surely find a metal shop. they can do anything thats why they are metal fabricators. :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
    • Cheers mate. Seems some people get lucky others don't. It looks like the motor was detonating (to be expected if it was overboosting I suppose) as the pistons had a lot of detonation damage, and the bearings were stuffed. The bores were very scoured too, not sure if that's from the pistons or bits of ceramic turbo. By the by now. Have been trying to avoid the rabbit hole too much on the rebuild, and there's been a few hurdles along the way, but with any luck I'll have the car back soon™. Might even pop up a thread then.  
×
×
  • Create New...