Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there....anyone knows who can re-thread the thread on the gear stick? The thread on my gearstick has worn out and i cant screw in my gear knob at all.

PICS UP further down in the post....Anyone who can fix the problem?

Edited by J-Boy
Hi there....anyone knows who can re-thread the thread on the gear stick? The thread on my gearstick has worn out and i cant screw in my gear knob at all.

Cheers~

Try some plumbers thread tape and something sort of removable strength thread locker.. might work i guess.

How the hell do you wear down the gear thread?? :P Do you have a habit of unscrewing it at the lights or something??

Hmmm...where can i find an engineering shop? And wot's a plumber's thread tape or something? Sorry im not too familiar with those stuff...well the thread on the gearstick was already worn out when i bought the car, i also dont know how the garage in japan managed to do that.

Anyway that's a genuine Trust Gracer front bar, it came with the car.

plumber thread tape..you wrap it around the tip of the gear stick then put the gear knob on..basically tightens it up and secures it right...but once your screw the knob on..dont turn it back or else you'll have to pull the tape off and do it again.

Hmmm...where can i find an engineering shop? And wot's a plumber's thread tape or something? Sorry im not too familiar with those stuff...well the thread on the gearstick was already worn out when i bought the car, i also dont know how the garage in japan managed to do that.

Anyway that's a genuine Trust Gracer front bar, it came with the car.

I'm jealous :), looking for a decent front bar to replace my busted up one and noone can tell me what type it is so i cant get the same style

Where can i get this plumber thread tape from?

Hmmm...try looking on yahoo auctions fer 32 GTR front bars, definitely can find something in japan, the GTR32 kits here are pretty limited...im trying to find trust side skirts n rear pods to complete my kit too...got a top secret GT wing with CF plates and CF canards but i dont fit them on fer use on the street.

:(

Well i have tried using the plumber thread tape and it does secure the gearknob a bit better, at least it does not slip out easily unless i used force and pull it out...but the knob cant be screwed tight still, as in it still turns n turns...but well it will do fer now i guess. :P

If you reckon the gear knob keeps turning even when it bottoms out, generally means that either the thread on the stick is stuffed or the thread on the knob is stuffed. A few edges could be chipped off, or even most of them.

Just out of curiosity, does the gear knob even have a thread in it?

If so, is it loose to turn onto the gear stick? It could be the wrong thread or wrong size, and someone previously has just jammed it on and cross threaded it which has made it how it is.

If you reckon the gear knob keeps turning even when it bottoms out, generally means that either the thread on the stick is stuffed or the thread on the knob is stuffed. A few edges could be chipped off, or even most of them.

Just out of curiosity, does the gear knob even have a thread in it?

If so, is it loose to turn onto the gear stick? It could be the wrong thread or wrong size, and someone previously has just jammed it on and cross threaded it which has made it how it is.

i got mine off of ebay cost me like 89 bucks and it is sexy. nismo one comes in a mad little nismo box and i checked with the nismo catalogue at work and it was the same. got a price through work and they wanted like 115 bucks for it so im happy

Well i know its not the thread on the gearknob itself because i had it trial fitted onto another gtr and it fitted perfectly, so it is my gear stick thread itself. The thread tape isn't holding it anymore....i really need to rethread the gear stick....anyone can tell me who n where does re-threading?

Cheers~

well having your shifter re threaded isnt going to help you much, as the new thread will be thinner than the diameter required to fit your shift knob.

i suggest you go to a spair parts or wrecker and ask for a shifter, or buy yourself an aftermarket shifter.

you wont have much luck at all putting your gear knob onto the shifter once you re tap the thread.

If I could see it I could tell you whats wrong and maybe fix it.

Does the thread on the the stick look OK? or is it worn down and lumpy insted of the usual /\/\/\/\/\/\ shape? You can get helicoils that repair threads or I can weld it and rethread it, without seeing it, its hard to say what to do, post up a pic to give me a better idea.

Hey there...well i can still see a bit of the ^v^v^v pattern..but certain parts feel a little smooth, so that might be the reason, im very sure its the thread on the stick that is the problem and not the knob...hmmm how can i meet up with u to let u have a look...? I will try to take a close up picture of it tmr and put it up. Where is helicoils anyway? It sucks cuz i cant change gear as smoothly especially when changing faster, and it doesn't help with an aftermarket gearbox that is really stiff n hard.

Cheers~

if u are looking for an engineering shop, if terry cant help ya, then just look one up in the yellowpages. there should be heaps in brisbane area. just go to your local industrial area and your will surely find a metal shop. they can do anything thats why they are metal fabricators. :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...