Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, i need help with my lights and i dont know what's wrong with it. The initial lighting, wen u first turn the switch the lights that are supposed to light on arent turning on this includes the brake lights, lights on the dash, and parker lights etc. Not sure whats going on so PLEASE HELP!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113504-need-help-with-my-lights/
Share on other sites

similar problem to me dude, posted on maintanence forums, ask you the same question i was asked.

have you changed out your stereo recently?

cuase aparently you can mistake the ilumination wire with ground, even with a multi-meter which i was useing at the time, aparently it conects directly to the constant there leaveing you none for the stereo.

aparently i;ve blown a fuse aswell but i cant find one in all 3 locations.

2 fixes im waiting on an answer to here, eitehr t of both to the constant though dont know if this will have adverse effects, ie. blow a fuse or a bulb.

OR

run a wire directly from the battery and put in an inline fuse for your constant for the stereo.

option 2 Will work for the stereo though is a slight pain in the arse to rip out my interior for the 10th time etc etc.

I havent check the little black enclosed box to the left side of hte fuses which aprently contains more fuses, but my car comes with the ignition warning and ignition surround light which aparently get thier protection in there, hence the fuses,

after i re-wire my stez il let you know

p.s. no rear driving lights (brake lights work), no annoying buzzer, no back light to the dash but all the driving/warning lights function and no ignition surround light. enjoy.

p.s. no rear driving lights (brake lights work), no annoying buzzer, no back light to the dash but all the driving/warning lights function and no ignition surround light. enjoy.

Must get that 'terminology' right fellas.

The first position of your headlight switch will be the 'sidelights or position lights', 'parkers' most Aussies call em.

THEN the headlights, comprising low and high beam activate. Here btw, the front 'parkers' also stay on. Why? So that when the low-beam fails, the front outline of your car is still visible to oncoming traffic.

The term 'rear driving lights' is not appropriate, conjures up images of a set of actual 'driving lights' used to aid high-beam. Try instead 'tail lights'.

Nag nag nag:-)

Edited by Keepleft

is there a fuse box at the boot as well? didnt know that, well no i hvnt changed my stereo lately although i dnt think that will really affect the lighting will it? All my accessories work its just the lighting part that doesnt.

If there was a short, what is most likely to be damaged? the wires themselves? or just the fuses/relays.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...