Jump to content
SAU Community

Rough Idle And Ticking Noise From Exhuast Manifold Side

Kryostaisis

By Kryostaisis,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTR-80Y Mentor

GTR-80Y

Posted
Posted

To get the the firewall stud u need a small drill that can rotate to work at right angles. Otherwise u can call sum1 out to do it for u, think my mate paid $125 and he had it out in 30secs. Will hav to find his number.

Hmm maybe sum1 on the forum could help out here, i know the beer currency works well! lol

Chris Wilson Proficient

Chris Wilson

Posted
Posted
ive taken most of them off, ordered a few new studs, 2.25 each, but the gasket is 130bucks!!

then only problem i have is that the stud closest to the firewall has been snapped (most likely for quite some time now, as ive been experiencing the boost creep and flatspot for quite some time now), i have no idea how im going to get a drill into that to undo it, anyone have any ideas?

Use an air drill, as someone else says, you need a right angle drill, the proper type of air drill will get in there easily. If you don't have air rent a compressor.

Kryostaisis Community Regular

Kryostaisis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i have access to a air compressor and the drill does actually seem to be small enough... where can you get the drill to drill out at right angles? i might just invest in one of them

ill give it a go tomorro night, im still waiting on the studs and the gasket to come in

Chris Wilson Proficient

Chris Wilson

Posted
Posted
i have access to a air compressor and the drill does actually seem to be small enough... where can you get the drill to drill out at right angles? i might just invest in one of them

ill give it a go tomorro night, im still waiting on the studs and the gasket to come in

I use CP air tools (Chicago Pneumatic) and they do a range of miniature right angle drills. I am in England UK, so I have no idea where in Oz you can buy these, sorry.

Kryostaisis Community Regular

Kryostaisis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hahah didnt realise you were form england till just now.. lol

ill have a look around the shops tomorro

i hope i can get the stud out, should i drill a pilot hole out then use an easy out with it? i dont know if the easy out will be enough, it might actually snap before it even moves the stud

Kryostaisis Community Regular

Kryostaisis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok, ive got pics when the manifold and everything is off, and now the studs have been put in, cost 60 bucks to pull out the broken studs including new studs..

regret going to nissan to order the parts though, for 2 studs, 2 washers and 2 yokes cost 27bucks, too late to cancel so i have them left hanging around for nothing.

will post pics up shortly

Kryostaisis Community Regular

Kryostaisis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

after all the trouble, and after breaking another stud(when i was spinning the bolt in with my fingers!!) ive got everything back together, there is no leaks or rough idling anymore.

sorry guys about pics, was in a rush to get everything done

but my boost problem is still there, now its there iff not even worse..

i tried replacing the std actuator with a adjustable N1 actuator, and it seems to have a small flatspot still, but boost still climbs, in fact it creeps from .8 bar to 1 bar still in 2nd gear, and when i change gears, it takes a long time to boost back up again.. i mean wont reach full boost for ages, and not only does it take a long time to reach full boost.... boost now then clims to 1.3bar! and no power at all, till boost drops back off to 1.0bar

its really shitting me, ive tried without any boost controller aswell..

i have a few theories/ ideas

1. when i placed on the actuator with mods, ive had to shorten the actuator arm, so that there was 1mm to pull for the end of the arm to attach to the wastegate (if you guys can understand that, otherwise in other words, for there to be tension to keep the gate closed we had to shorten the actuators arm but the shortest we could go was 1mm shorter than where the actuator was supposed to attach to the gate)

should i fix this? or lengthen the arm a bit further so the gate is slightly open?

2. could it be my CAS retarding timing?

3. could it be my knock sensor being damaged, which ive read to retard timing aswell

4. a stupidly big leak somewhere

5. the manual boost controller? (ive had a electronic one in there... did the same thing.... ive also tried to plum the line straight from the intercooler to the actuator... still did it...

6.something jamming the intake manifold..(dunno why and how but just a though as i remmber leaving a cloth in there and and pulling it back out after the engine was turned on)

it feels like its blowing air an not doing anything about it... ive sent it to two big names in tuning and performance in canberra which i will not name.. spent large amounts of money to try and fix this problem... and it is still not fixed...

can anyone help?? please

PS: with the manual boost controller i think i may be faulty, i screwd it tight, which in turn should just give me stock boost... but it infact doesnt let me boost at all, and at 5000rpm boost starts to climb.. but im going to just plumb it from the pipe to actuator to check it again

Kryostaisis Community Regular

Kryostaisis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok guys, just tried running the car without the boost controller(just pluming a line from the intercooler pipe to the actuator), power is smooth through most of the rev range, a slight flatspot at 6000rpm.. here is the thing, it starts boosting up till .7bar then creeps rapidly to 1.1bar and looks like it would keep climing if the revs didnt run out.

i guess its not the boost controller issue, and it cant be faulty..

anyone with any ideas?

Kryostaisis Community Regular

Kryostaisis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok, realised something just before, i boosted it in 5th gear from 80km/h it sits at .6bar at 3000rpm, then when it reaches 4000rpm it starts to climb right to 1 bar before the end of the rev range..

i tried it again but at 70km/h in 5th gear, it sat at .6bar and started to fuel cut!

any one got ideas.. need to sort this out asap

what causes fuel cut

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      This sounds like a perfect excuse to install a Haltech R3.
    • Kinkstaah
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I do believe from context he is talking about a S0/S1 R33 RB25 with associated ECU and Wiring for that, and a manual gearbox into a R34 N/A Auto. I don't have the knowledge of all the pinouts and such but my gut feeling from doing my own conversion is to use as much of the R33 stuff that you can. The "car" wiring is quite seperate from the "Engine" wiring when all things are considered. The only things to truly consider 99% of the time is the cluster, reverse lights and potentially disabling the 'not in P/N' immobilizer circuit.
    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • GTSBoy
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • WR33KD
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By WR33KD · Posted

      I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
×
×
  • Create New...