Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey kezza, u heard from ur buddy yet?

lol, no not as yet mate. he is some were between canada and japan at the moment.. lol

but he is waiting on reply from makers on all tricky questions :D

sorry taking so long..

kezza

Kezz do u have any pics of them lit up at night...

I assume from what i have read that you can only get blue or red writing for the $110 price and if you want white faced with black writing then its $150???

Is this so?

Any pics for r34gt-t?
Kezz do u have any pics of them lit up at night...

I assume from what i have read that you can only get blue or red writing for the $110 price and if you want white faced with black writing then its $150???

Is this so?

jonjon sorry found out they cant make them for the R34, because the stock ones have a 3D shape.

Col-GTSX yeah i have a pic of them at night, my mates R33 GTS-t S2

And yeah it would cost more to have other than standard RED or BLUE numbers.

]

THIS USING STOCK LIGHTS.(MY MATES r33)

P2202212.jpg

post-27894-1147642014.jpgpost-27894-1147641874.jpg

Hello - I've been searching for some replacement dial faces for my RS Four V - trouble is I'm in the UK - no joy - someone sent me a link to this forum and I'd love to get hold of a complete bezel - white dials with the metal facia - looks stunning. my speedo face is a complete mess - glue all over the place (not my doing) what's the chance of getting a unit shipped to me in England? Obviously I'm prepared to pay - just can't get hold of anything over here.

cheers

John

post-27894-1147642014.jpgpost-27894-1147641874.jpg

Hello - I've been searching for some replacement dial faces for my RS Four V - trouble is I'm in the UK - no joy - someone sent me a link to this forum and I'd love to get hold of a complete bezel - white dials with the metal facia - looks stunning. my speedo face is a complete mess - glue all over the place (not my doing) what's the chance of getting a unit shipped to me in England? Obviously I'm prepared to pay - just can't get hold of anything over here.

cheers

John

PM sent mate.

Could I get a set of blue numbered dials and the bezel & ring set for an R32 GTR. Only if you have the speedo upto 260kph or higher

Before I send money could u tell me when this GB closes, dont want to wait indefinately for them.

Edited by Mr Cali
Could I get a set of blue numbered dials and the bezel & ring set for an R32 GTR. Only if you have the speedo upto 260kph or higher

Before I send money could u tell me when this GB closes, dont want to wait indefinately for them.

CLOSING IN ABOUT 1 WEEK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Do u have R34GTT bezel for the auto??? Is so...I'm in!

yes mate, it is confirmed they are available in both Auto and Manual !!

Sorry it took so long to reply!!

Ok, the globe size has nothing to do with the dials them selfs.

This is a pic of my mates R33 S2 with stocko lighting, its not too bad at all...

P2202212.jpg

Mate is that pic of a stock R33S2 cluster with stock lighting? Cos mine doesnt look that nicely lit up!! :fakenopic:

Can anyone post a pic of these this white cluser lit up at night?

' date='19 May 2006, 10:25 PM' post='2183999']

Im in for a set for r32 gtr white with green writing, Also need a custom speedo 320km, can provide a photo. How much is that kezza? Whats the deposit? an whats your account details?

hey mate,

yes plz post a photo of your current speedo as soon as you can, this buy is closing....

I'll just get a set of bezel and rings for the r32 gtr then thanks

PM SENT MATE

Mate is that pic of a stock R33S2 cluster with stock lighting? Cos mine doesnt look that nicely lit up!! :nyaanyaa:

YES BRO THIS IS STOCK LIGHTING ON MY MATES R33 GTST S2, MAYBE CHECK ALL YA GLOBES ARE WORKING.. IF NOT AT LEAST THIS BRIGHT YOU MAY HAVE A BLOWEN LIGHT OR TWOCan

' date='19 May 2006, 11:25 PM' post='2183999']

Im in for a set for r32 gtr white with green writing, Also need a custom speedo 320km, can provide a photo. How much is that kezza? Whats the deposit? an whats your account details?

PLEASE SEND ME A SCAN OF YOUR DIALS ASAP, TO [email protected] SO I CAN GET IT OFF TO JAPAN TO BE MADE!

ATT MIKE, WHAT IS THE PRICE FOR A COSTOM SET OF DIALS FOR rx-7?

ATT MIKE, WHAT IS THE PRICE FOR A COSTOM SET OF DIALS FOR rx-7?[/size]

Send me the pics first, I need to know if its just a custom speedo or if its for all meters in the cluster.

just the speedo starts at $180 if he wants a full custom cluster it starts at $300.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...