Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

0.90bar is beyond the standard turbocharger limits so its just more heat. you wont gain anymore power but if you insist on doing it for the sake of "im running more boost" knock yourself out. the intake temp will rise though

as long as you have an intercooler and a good tune, you will be able to run 1.0 bar fine, but your turbo wont last, the stock one wont handle anything above 13psi

your stok internals are good for approx 270rwkw with a good tune, some people have even seen past 300rwkw(probably due to a higher reading dyno)

this is not true at all. the stock compressor is past its effiency past 12psi. for every psi you dial in you add in more heat and increase the shaft speed. the more heat you dial in, the less power you make and the quicker the shaft speed spins. also with an unsafe tune the exaust outlet temps will soar will killing the exhaust wheel.

more boost = more power

ONLY when you are in the effiency zone of the compressor wheel

ie: its true when you are running 7psi on the stock turbocharger and up it to say 9psi. as when you dial in more pressure, more airflow follows. airflow makes power, not boost.

0.66/0.68 bar is the stock for >4,500 rpm on R33 - so run it up there otherwise your losing out.. as for 0.75 - well.. mine spikes to that on occasions.. see how you go - get your FMIC run maybe 0.7/0.75..

been discussed alot before - people recommend 10psi daily max and 12psi max full stop out of stock turbo as the exhaust wheel tends to desintegrate..

hes right, you can get 300rwhp out of a stock turbo, providing you have a good tune and a ECU, liek in his case, a power fc

ive seen many skylines make over the 210rwkw mark with just power fc and airfilter, fmic and exhaust.

but you have to be careful, some dynos use different correction methods which give higher readings than those of other dynos

your stok internals are good for approx 270rwkw with a good tune, some people have even seen past 300rwkw(probably due to a higher reading dyno)

so many people make way over 300 not due to a "higher reading dyno" due to a nice turbo and nice tune

Edited by thizzle

The 2psi will give more hp, just not too much more, as you said it will increase heat a fair bit and shorten the life of the turbo!

Generally I would say 400hp (rb25) is the limit on standard internals if you treat it right and have a very good tune :(

I think what he means above is that some dyno'd read higher than others, so a person may say i make 300rwkw on standard internals where as on a diff dyno they'd be making 270ish rather than having a diff turbo n set up?

Edited by jazza08
so many people make way over 300 not due to a "higher reading dyno" due to a nice turbo and nice tune

ive seen a few have that aswell, mines got 297rwkw on stock internals, but ive also seen a few around the 300rwkw mark on a low reading dyno have their pistons crack, under a conservative tune aswell

in the end its completely up to the owner of the car, if you are willing to risk your engine blowing then by all means, boost it up and tune it up well. otherwise rebuild your bottom end then work from there

most dynos use the shootout mode for power runs, its a common fact, on shootout mode, the dyno will give a higher reading than if they used another mode. simply because of the fact that the correction method used, compensates for heat and other factors more in shootout mode than other modes

Edited by Kryostaisis
ive seen a few have that aswell, mines got 297rwkw on stock internals, but ive also seen a few around the 300rwkw mark on a low reading dyno have their pistons crack, under a conservative tune aswell

in the end its completely up to the owner of the car, if you are willing to risk your engine blowing then by all means, boost it up and tune it up well. otherwise rebuild your bottom end then work from there

most dynos use the shootout mode for power runs, its a common fact, on shootout mode, the dyno will give a higher reading than if they used another mode. simply because of the fact that the correction method used, compensates for heat and other factors more in shootout mode than other modes

no doubt...i agree

i would feel alot better about thrashin my car with a rebuilt bottom end..

i still think the 25 is under estimated tho..

1 bar on stock turbo = same as 12psi

so that extra 2psi is just more heat

likely to make it go bang

Just cos I was confused :

1 bar = 14.5psi

so I assume he means the extra 2.5psi is lost cos of the extra heat.

hehe

Edited by khunjeng

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
×
×
  • Create New...